100% Success on the Kautz Glacier
Earlier this summer, July 28 – August 1 to be exact, myself (Nate Disser) and Dave Ahrens successfully led 4 climbers to the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Kautz Glacier Route. Things started off for our team in Ashford, WA, the best place to meet for groups climbing either the standard Disappointment Cleaver Route or the Kautz Glacier Route. An afternoon gear check left us hungry for a pre-trip meal and we decided on the Copper Creek restaurant – a very worthy place to get a great meal before the climb.
The Climb Begins
The following morning we all headed up to Paradise and after registering at the Ranger Station we were off on the trail towards our first camp for the evening. Starting off from Paradise is always a bit of a circus, as countless other day hikers and climbers adorn the trails heading out from Paradise. Most folks are headed up towards Panoraman Point, or perhaps even Camp Muir, but our destination was Glacier Vista where we would drop down onto the edge of the Nisqually Glacier. The lower Nisqually Glacier must be crossed in order to reach the Kautz Glacier, and after cramponing up and roping together for the glacier crossing we were making quick work of the day. Crossing the Nisqually is relatively straightforward, save for a few end runs around large crevasses and is much easier with good visibility. Having crossed the Nisqually many times previously in white out conditions, I was enjoying the fine weather and classic Northwest July high pressure system that typified our trip.
Skills & Forward Progress
We settled on a camp for the evening at about 7800′ and enjoyed fantastic views and a beautiful sunset to the south. The following morning we awoke somewhat lazily as our goal for the day was only to travel to a popular camp known as The Castle at about 9600′ and only 1800′ above us. After some snow and glacier travel skill practice in the morning, we headed up to The Castle, gaining the Wilson Glacier in the process. The next day we rose to more fine weather and barely a breath of wind. After more skill practice – this time on crevasse rescue protocols, hauling systems, etc. we packed up and headed onwards to high camp at about 10,800′. High camp on the Kautz Glacier Route is accessed via the Turtle Snowfield at the top of which there are a collection of campsites scattered amongst the rocks. Making this high camp puts you in excellent position for the summit bid the following night/morning.
The Summit Climb
After a lazy afternoon, everyone turned in early in anticipation of waking early that night/morning for the summit bid. Our team decided to leave camp around 1:30 am, planning on a 6.5 hour one way trip to the summit. A slight change in the weather gave some cause for a heightened sense of awareness for the summit climb. However, upon leaving camp precisely at 1:30 the stars were visible and very little wind could be felt. After about 20 minutes of walking, we reached one of the technical challenges of the day, the rock step which requires a lower/rappel to access the Kautz Glacier proper and subsequently the often intimidating Kautz Ice Chute.
Our team made quick work of the transition and we were all very soon making our way up the steeper ice sections of the ice chute. A combination of short pitches and short roping led us to the top of the ice chute in about an hour. Climbers had the opportunity to swing two tools on the climb this year, as the route offered more and steeper ice than other times I had done the route. Overall, the Kautz Ice Chute is a very fun, engaging, and unique aspect to the Kautz Route.
Above the ice chute, we transitioned back into glacer travel mode and made our way to the Wapowety Cleaver which separates the Kautz Glacier from the upper Nisqually Glacier. At about 13,000′ our team took a nice long – yet predictably cold – rest break prior to setting off on the last stretch across the upper Nisqually to the crater rim of Mt. Rainier. At this point, we started to experience a more dramatic shift in the weather with higher upper level winds helping to form a “cap” or lenticular cloud over the summit of Mt. Rainier. A lenticular cap in such instances is quite typically the harbinger of an approaching storm. However, our team pushed on towards the summit, navigating increasing winds and decreasing visibility as we climbed. Adequate safety margins were maintained throughout the ascent though and all of our team members felt strong as we neared the summit. Finally, after a long (1.5 hour) stretch from our last break we reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. Once inside the crater, the winds abated considerably and we enjoyed a nice long break with plenty of food and water prior to the descent back down to high camp. A few team members who had not previously summited Mt. Rainier before this trip decided to make the extra effort and climb to the Columbia Crest - literally the highest point on the crater rim of Mt. Rainier.
An Efficient Descent
As we descended, the weather began to improve slightly and we were able to make it back down to our camp with relative ease and minimal hassle. After a 2 hour nap, our team decided to make the effort to move camp further down the mountain in anticipation of leaving early the following morning and reaching Paradise in the early afternoon. It’s tough to resist the temptation of a hearty meal after such effort on the peak, and visions of cheeseburgers certainly provided additional motivation to maintain our focus and efficient style all the way back to the parking lot – the true summit of any mountain climb.
Overall, the trip went off without a hitch – the perfect combination of good planning, great weather, and an efficient, motivated climbing team. When it all comes together like that, it just doesn’t get much better. I can’t say enough what a pleasure it was to climb with Rhon, Kevin, Brant, and Brian and spend 5 days in the mountains sharing life stories and the requisite compliment of tasteful jokes as well. Both Dave and I look forward to climbing with them in the future – most likely in Ouray this winter!
Stay tuned for our Mt. Rainier dates for 2014!!
AMGA Certified Rock & Alpine Guide
Recently a few of us headed out into the Weminuche Wilderness for a climb of the inspiring Wham Ridge on Vestal Peak. Vestal Peak is one of our most popular offerings in the San Juan Mountains during the summer in part because it qualifies as one of the most difficult of Colorado’s Centennial Peaks (the highest 100 peaks in Colorado). Beyond that it is truly one of the best climbs in the entire mountain west and offers solid alpine rock in an incredible wilderness setting.
But don’t take my word for it – see for yourself in the video teaser below! The full video episode will be out in about a week!!
SJMG Guide Interview
Dan Zokaites – AMGA Rock Guide
The Featured Guide section is a new element of our newsletter and SJMG Blog intended to provide you with an in-depth look at some of our world-class guides. This issue’s Featured Guide is Dan Zokaites - an AMGA Certified Rock Guide and SJMG Guide since 2012.
Dan is a relatively new guide with SJMG, but he brings with him a wealth of experience as both a guide and a former ski patroller at Telluride Ski Resort. A recent comment about Dan from a client on one of our trips sums up the quality that Dan brings to SJMG – “Dan’s phone call the night before we were to meet was really appreciated. He made sure we were prepared and had the necessary equipment. He also answered several questions that made us at ease from the start. Such a GREAT guide from start to finish. He paid attention to every detail!!!”. Read more about Dan below!
1. Where did you grow up?
2. What is your rock climbing experience?
I have spent the last 10 years pursuing a year round life in the mountains. This has taken me from climbing in South America and Indonesia to skiing in Alaska and making my permanent home in the San Juans.
3. What is your training background?
I have a background in Engineering and so I love the technical aspects of guiding. I am a certified Rock Guide with the American Mountain Guides Association and am in the process of pursuing my IFMGA (Certified Rock, Alpine, & Ski Guide) certification.
4. What are your favorite places to guide?
The Black Canyon because it provides sustained quality rock climbing in a truly unique environment. Another favorite spot is the is climbing in Ouray because it has everything from top roping in the ice park to multi-pitch classics.
5. What is your favorite part about this job?
My favorite part of working with San Juan Mountain Guides is helping others learn the nuances of climbing and skiing and watching them expand their boundaries.
6. What makes you a good guide?
I would say that my genuine focus on helping people to learn new skills and then apply those skills to different terrain types is what makes me a good guide. I like reaching the summit of peaks too, don’t get me wrong, but there is nothing more rewarding than teaching.
7. What is your most memorable guiding experience?
Recently this year I got the opportunity to guide a 10 day alpine peaks traverse in the Weminuche Wilderness. The opportunity to spend that amount of time in an area I had previously not guided much, and being so near to my home yet one of the coolest mountain ranges I have ever been too really struck me. I can’t wait to head back into the Weminuche again!
8. Best/coolest climb you have ever done? Anywhere.
The coolest climb I have done has to be climbing Mount Huntington in Denali National Park.
9. What’s on your iPod right now?
I don’t own an iPod
10. 3 most Crucial Elements of a guide-client relationship?
Respect, trust, and humor.
The Weminuche Ski Traverse
Andrew Klotz - AMGA Certified Ski Guide
On April 23rd of 2013 I set out with three friends to do a trip that we had all thought about for a long time – a ski traverse through the heart of the Weminuche Wilderness in the San Juan Mountains. In previous years we completed a number of other traverses in outlying parts of the San Juans – but this was the year to go for the big Kahoony.
Early debates about whether to basecamp and climb (and thus schlep extra mountaineering gear) quickly gave way to a plan to just move through the most spectacular part of the wilderness and get in as many great descents as possible on the way.
Stage 1. Lift off. Lemon Reservoir to Sheridan Mountain
Entering the wilderness without a multi-mile long slog along a forest service road was where our friend Dave played a key role. A well seasoned sledneck, Dave was able to bring along and rig up his machine to tow three skiers. If you never have “skied” behind a snowmachine you are missing out on an important category of the sport.
Dodging rocks and racing uphill at 30 miles an hour is not to be missed. We knocked out the nearly 10 miles of road in less than an hour with some hilarious falls and no (serious) injuries. We thought it best to stick with the nature of gas burning fun and celebrate our entry at the Wilderness boundary with a round of cold ones.
Now it was time to work. Putting on our skins, we moved up hard snow and the above timberline ridge of Endlich mesa making our way to Sheridan Peak for a ski descent down its long northwest facing couloir to land us at our campsite near City reservoir.
Although the coulior itself presents a really nice line, the snow condition were less than optimal. And with fully loaded five day packs we did the best we could skiing the 45 degree rollovers on the variable very hard and crusty snow.
We set up a nice camp with great views of our route the next day.
Day 2: City Reservoir to Chicago Basin
Today it was our business to get up on and traverse the high alpine of Silver Mesa on our way to Chicago Basin. The skies were grey, trending toward, but never getting to, whiteout conditions, and the miles rolled by. We kept it going in hopes of a great ski descent from Aztec Mountain down into Chicago Basin.
Eventually we got to our col and were not disappointed. Although the snow in this zone had a slight dust layer, a mile and half long and 2000 foot descent fired us up.
The bowl funneled into a neat gully feature that we managed to hack our way down.
We searched for dry ground in the basin and eventually found some slabs to cook and hang out on. Then it started snowing….. So far, a great 2 days, but the best was yet to come.
Day 3: Chicago Basin to Noname Basin
Today we had two plans, both leading to the same place. Our original idea was to cross over into Upper Noname Basin via the Sunlight Col – and it did indeed look excellent both on the map and from a ski mountaineering standpoint. But a somewhat late start and boiling sunshine led us to expedite our climb on these south facing slopes to the much closer, Twin Thumbs col.
In the end, this was probably the better ski descent and the 2200 feet of turns, first powdery, and then corn snow, sealed any questions as to whether we had taken the best route.
After a lot of incredible skiing we made it to treeline in Noname, rested and prepared to head up again to get into position for another big day.
After a few hours of climbing we hit a perfect campsite at a small lake just below Jagged Col.
The evening ended with a funny disagreement about what time to leave in the next morning, given our somewhat late start the day before. The first big warm up of the season was underway and we had to traverse a lot of complex terrain the following day.
In the end all was fine, but not without a blood spurting knife wound (the outcome of a ski boot “whitteling” project undertaken in the dark) and a load of amusing discussion about which guy was the best map reader.
Day 4: Jagged Col to Elk Creek
This was a big day with some questions. Two things we knew for sure; we didn’t want to be on any steep sunny slopes in the afternoon and that we had 6 passes to get over so the plan was to get up super early and make haste just in case.
From the top of Jagged Pass we scooted directly north to the pass just west of Leviathan peak.
After a short but very cool ski descent into an amazing deep basin with huge walls all around we shot up another short pass and around to the east ridge of Peak 7 and then north again to a pass near Peak 8 and around again to a pass dropping us into Lake Silex. Five of the six passes were down and we had passed through some incredible terrain with good skiing.
After making our final, mildly hairy, descent into the upper reaches of stormy gulch we laid down on some dry ground for a long nap under the impressive north face of Storm King Peak.
After a few hours we rousted ourselves into a lazy conversation about where to go from here. Quality plans were laid out to ski off the summit of peak 2 or peak 1 the following day. But as the afternoon wore on and the sun got lower in the sky we all settled on the more appealing option of just skiing to the Peak 2 and Peak 1 pass and drop the big and long descent right down into the upper elk creek drainage.
When we finally pulled the skins at the pass we were welcomed by a really nice mellow descent through more incredible terrain and a sweet dry campspot.
Day 5: Silverton
The only day we didn’t get a ski descent in, but satisfying nonetheless. Our dry camp in an upper Elk Creek Meadow was warmly welcomed with a nice fire, much eating, and polishing off the rest of our small (strictly survival) supply of booze and tobacco. We woke up late, started another fire, and ski booted all the way down to the train tracks in Elk Park.
From here, the prospects of hiking up the 5 miles and 2000 vertical up to Molas pass seemed like an unfitting end to our journey. It was early season, the train wasn’t running, so we opted to hike out the tracks into Silverton. About 2.5 hours later we were walking up and down the empty streets of Silverton with skis strapped to our packs looking for an open restaurant. Finding none, we hit the liquor store, bought some Coors and couple bags of Funyuns and sat out front on the small grass patch to relax and await our ride.
Shortly thereafter a Sherriff deputy pulled up and we thought we were busted for having open beers in public! But no, he just wanted to know about what we had just done! This is the Southwest Colorado I love, when mountain folks young and old are interested in hearing about adventures. He was a nice guy and seemed genuinely excited for us and our trip. Cool.
Inspiration from Imagery
Labor Day Weekend
We’ve had a busy weekend here in the San Juans, with fantastic weather and plenty of summits throughout the range – not to mention a few laps on the Telluride Via Ferrata. Hope everyone had a great Labor Day weekend!!
4 Easy to Follow Tips
by Dawn Glanc
AMGA Certified Rock & Alpine Guide
So many times when we go climbing, the sole focus is on the climber. However, the belayer is equally important to the team. A lead belayer should not take their job lightly. A casual approach can cause injuries – and possibly worse. The belayer’s job is to provide a safe and reliable catch should the leader fall. The last thing the climber wants is to stress about the belayer’s ability. Here are four easy to follow tips to help you become the best lead belayer at the crag.
1. Stack the rope
This seems so simple and rudimentary, however it sets you up for success. Start with one end of the rope, and flake the rope into a neat and orderly pile until you get to the climbers end of the rope. Consider using a rope bag, tarp or ground cloth if you are outside. Keep the rope on the tarp to help eliminate snagging on rocks or tree roots. By taking the time to complete this process, it will help to keep the rope free of knots and will help you feed rope out with ease.
2. Wear Gloves
No matter what type of belay device you choose to use, you should consider wearing a pair of belay gloves. We rely upon friction to control the rope. The smaller the diameter of rope, the harder it can be to control the friction. A gloved hand will simply protect the skin from the heat created when handling the rope. This seems even more important if you choose to use an ATC style device to belay. There are many styles and manufactures to choose from. Whatever brand you choose, be sure the glove fits well. The gloves may take some getting used to, but they will protect you and the climber in a fall scenario and when lowering the climber to the ground.
3. Stand up and have a good stance
When you are belaying, you should be fully engaged. Begin by finding a comfortable stance that you can maintain for the duration of the climb. It is important to find a place that will help you stand in balance, so that you do not pull the climber off the route. Standing up right in an athletic stance will also allow you to be in a ready position if a fall occurs. Allow yourself to be light on your feet if a fall comes and be prepared to be pulled upward. Finally, standing upright will allow you to stay safe and move out of the way if rock falls. Also consider wearing a helmet.
As the belayer you should be one hundred percent focused on the climber. This is not the time to be eating your sandwich or using the phone. Pay attention and be aware as the climber advances. Keep talking and idle chitchat with the climber and others to a minimum. Be aware of over spraying beta as well. Be mindful and do your best to watch the climber. If you are having problems looking up constantly, try using belay glasses such as *CU glasses or *belaggles to help you see. The last thing you want to do is be an absent minded distraction to the climber.
Belaying is a real job with consequences. It as an example of a very trusting give and take relationship between two partners. The climber is putting their life in the belayer’s hands every time they agree the belay is on. This verbal contract is the foundation for a safe day out. By implementing good judgment, being mindful and following these four tips, you will be on your way to being a great belayer. A great climber once said, “If you are not belaying, you are just climbing.” Have fun out there!
For more info, to see photos or to follow Dawn Glanc go to:
*CU Belay glasses- cubelayglasses.co.uk
*Belaggles belay glasses– www.belaggles.com
The last couple weeks have flown by! Here are some of the highlights…
Shawn, Nick and I climbed Sunlight(14,059′) and Windom(14,082′) in Chicago Basin.
I met Ken, Daniel and Aaron in Telluride to climb Wilson Peak(14,017′). While waiting in the gas staion parking lot at 4:30am I got to see who was making a mess by knocking over all the trash cans, and going through the contents. We were surprised to find a 1/2″ of fresh snow on Wilson Peak. It quickly melted as the sun came up and started heating up the rock.
Lastly Bob and I hiked up Noname Basin to climb Jagged Peak. We ended up climbing the rarely attempted Peak 6(13,705′) instead.
It was great climbing with all of you! Its hard not to have fun in the San Juans this time of year. Hell any time of year is great!
Success on the French Direct
SJMG Guide Andres Marin
Our expedition was just incredible. Every moment was just fantastic, in our journey to the top of Alpamayo: from our long bus ride from Lima to Huaraz, meeting great people in Huaraz, putting all our gear together in H town, taking the bus to Cachapampa, the magic hike through the majestic canyons that took us to our first camp where we spent our first night out where we can hear the Santa Cruz River running with its clear mountain water.
Our next day hike to Base camp where the first view of our objective and lots of other just stunning mountains that captivate our attention. Once at BC the UNO games start and the scores start to accumulate. The meals that Max (our chef) made for us were out of a 5 star mountain hotel. Our way up making carries and getting and higher we got to see different parts of the incredible Cordillera Blanca mountain range and the glaciers and high alpine lakes open right to our view.
Moraine camp at the foot of the main glacier was a great place to observe our surroundings. After spending the night there it was time for us to head up and get to Col camp, where cool glacier travel and little bit of steep of climbing was waiting for us. We also witnessed the strengh of our porters Zacarias and Pelayo, and that carrying 90 pounds of stuff did not slow them down a bit to climb steep snow at 16,000′!
Once at Col/High camp the hole entire SW face of Alpamayo was just in front of us with its dreamy looking ice runnels that go from the top all the way to the base. After the rest day, it was time for us to attempt the summit climb. We woke up super early with an alpine start and started heading to the base of the route. 300M of 45 to 60 degree ice runnel was waiting for us.
The climb was just fun super sticky ice and dreamy snow took us to the top of Alpamayo where, we all enjoyed our success. All of our clients climbed the route in great style, using the techniques they learned climbing with us in the Ouray Ice Park. We took some photos and started rappelling the face.
It was a very long route 10 hours round trip of just fun climbing and rappelling, before we knew it, we found ourselves back in camp, a rest day was in order and then we started back tracking our way down to BC where Rodrigo and Max had planned a fun day of rest and eating for us.
They made a very special plate call PACHAMANCA. It takes long time to make since they make a fire first, dig a hole put all the food in the hole cover it and let it cook for 45 min. It was a great feast and a great way to celebrate the success of our trip!
The next day it was time for us to start our hike down to Huaraz. We spent couple of days there and we all flew back home safe and sound. All and all it was a superb expedition full of great times and incredible views and company. I’m totally looking forward to do it again next year. I also wanted to thank Ted, Chris, Julie, Charles, Rodrigo and company for such incredible times.
AMGA Certified Rock & Alpine Guide
Outdoor Research Guide Uniforms
SJMG Guide Ben Kiessel
As a partner guide service with Outdoor Research, each season we get a few new pieces of technical outerwear to use on our trips – part of our SJMG Guide Uniform. This year, and after a hearty bit of field work already I might add, SJMG Guide Ben Kiessel has had the chance to review this season’s gear.
Everyone gets excited at the start of the summer guiding season. Given the vast expanse and terrain types of Colorado’s San Juan Mountains – we put our gear through a lot of tough use. From multi-day backpacking trips in the Weminuche Wilderness (with plenty of afternoon thunderstorms I might add), to the alpine rock of the Grenadier Range and the Wilson/El Diente Traverse – I’ve put my technical outerwear through more than it’s fair share of mountain days. I’m pleased to report that our Outdoor Research Guide Uniform has been more than up to the task.
The Ferrosi Pants and Hoody are both super beathable yet offer excellent wind and water resistance. So whether we are guiding Telluride’s Via Ferrata or the Snake Couloir on Mt. Sneffels we are dry, warm and able to focus on our job not our layering system. The Ferrosi Hoody is light enough that I have worn it on hot, sunny days for sun protection. The Ferrosi Pant is burly enough that it doesn’t show any wear after guiding long trad routes in the Black Canyon or towers in Moab area. In addition, they are cut perfectly for alpine and rock climbing objectives alike, with minimal extraneous fabric in places you don’t need extra fabric.
I usually layer on the Sequence S/S Polo – which is both comfortable and stylish, and then the Radiant LT Zip Top over that for cool evenings or mornings. I’m particularly a fan of the thumb holes on the Radiant and find that the piece is cut perfectly so that those sleeves don’t ride up or make you feel like they are going to cut off circulation to your thumb when using the thumb holes. Seriously, I have had some other pullovers from different manufacturers who made the sleeves of the pullover too short such that the thumb holes were basically unusable for me – and I have long arms.
As our season progresess in southwest Colorado we experience daily afternoon thunderstorms in July and August that generally last for an hour or two. It’s key to have a rain coat that will keep you dry even in the heaviest rain storms yet is light as possible and compresses down for easy packing. I was impressed last year when we were wearing the Helium. The Helium II is lighter, more water poof and more breathable then its predecessor. At 6.4 oz it’s super light but is resiliant enough to thrash through dew covered willows on an alpine start for Wham Ridge on Vestal Peak.
Overall, you can’t go wrong with anything from OR. Well built, functional, stylish – the list goes on and on. I highly recommend their technical outerwear for all of your outdoor endeavors, wherever they may be. Have fun out there!
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
Although Ken lives in Texas he is on a mission to climb Colorodo’s 54 14,000 foot peaks! Last week we went into Chicago Basin with his son and climbed the areas three semi technical 14ers; Windom, Sunlight and Eolus. I believe after our trip Ken has climbed 38 14ers! We will be seeing Ken again in a couple weeks to climb Mt. Wilson and El Diente near Telluride. Stay tuned!