Our first team of climbers arrived in Anchorage yesterday and geared up for an expedition to Ham and Eggs; a 3,000 foot ice route on the Moose’s Tooth in the Central Alaska Range (FA: 1975, T. Davies, J.Krakauer, N. Zinsser). Andrés Marin, senior guide for SJMG is leading this unique trip; he is teamed up with Ted and Chris, strong climbers that climbed Alpamayo with Andrés last summer. The crew is excited to be in AK, heading to this epic route.
This morning the guys drove from Anchorage to Talkeetna, the staging place to fly to the glacier. Currently, planes are not landing at the “Root Canal”due to adverse conditions at the landing zone. The “Root Canal,” a drop-off pioneered by Talkeetna Air Taxi pilot Paul Roderick in the 90s brings climbers a short 100 yards from the base of the climb. Our team flew this afternoon into the Ruth Gorge. This will make for a long, full day hike across the glacier to the Moose’s Tooth and the start of Ham and Eggs.
Hopefully, the weather will come through for them to safely approach the climb. Stay tuned for updates on the expedition as we hear from Andrés via satellite calls. Wishing them a safe, beautiful journey.