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Eureka Ice Conditions
November 25, 2010
Ecuador Volcanoes Trip Dispatch #1
December 7, 2010

Saturday we decided to take the tools for a walk on Bird Brain Boulevard up in Skylight just outside Ouray, CO. As the first rays of light lit up the tops of the peaks to the west we were just finishing our approach to the base of Bird Brain Boulevard. The Ribbon which you pass on the way looks to be in fine climbing shape. Bird Brain starts of with some great mixed climbing (mostly rock this year) up slabs and into a nice chimney. The crux pitch is a thin layer of veriglass to the crux pillar. This year with several ascents already on it, the pillar has become severed. It is dry (not being feed), detached from the wall, and requires hard delicate mixed climbing with questionable protection to surmount. The rest of the climb follows beautiful chimney climbing with ever thickening ice. I would say that Bird Brain is probably climbable for other competent parties but it is defiantly NOT in fat or even healthy shape.

Have fun out there!

Ian A.

The Ribbon 12/4/2010

The Ribbon 12/4/2010

First Pitch on Bird Brain

First Pitch on Bird Brain

3rd Pitch of BBB

3rd Pitch of BBB

Chimneying

Chimneying

Upper pitches of BBB

Upper pitches of BBB

Good Ice

Good Ice

Thick ice just before traverse

Thick ice just before traverse

Final Chimney Pitch

Final Chimney Pitch

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