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Training for Mount Rainier’s Liberty Ridge
January 25, 2013
Learn to Lead Ice (Safer)
February 4, 2013
Steep Ice Climbing

Steep Ice in the Scottish Gullies

I recently had the opportunity to climb with three great guys – Kevin, Brant, and David – all of whom were long time friends prior to the trip, and had previously had some mountaineering experience on Mt. Rainier and Denali (Mt. McKinley).  Their mountaineering experience led them to become curious about gaining more technical climbing skills and ability, to perhaps qualify themselves for future objectives such as Liberty Ridge on Mt. Rainier or other technical alpine routes in Alaska.

South Park Ouray Ice Park

South Park, Ouray Ice Park

Being that none of the three had any previous ice climbing experience we naturally started from the beginning.  From learning the use of ice specific crampons to swinging a technical ice tool.  Our progression started with top-roping in the South Park climbing area at the Ouray Ice Park – and began with a few laps on lower angled ice to solidify the nuances of footwork and techniques associated with proper balance on the ice.  We then progressed and integrated the use of ice tools – first one tool, then the second tool.

Over the years we have found that utilizing this progression is very helpful for developing the kind of “good habits” with regard to ice climbing technique that allows climbers to advance quickly in terms of their climbing ability on ice.  Our established and time-tested curriculum is well known for helping people to become better ice climbers in a much faster time frame than they may have anticipated or expected prior to committing to the sport.

Scottish Gullies Ouray Ice Park

Scottish Gullies, Ouray Ice Park

Our second and third days climbing were spent in the Scottish Gullies area of the Ice Park – working on developing steeper and steeper ice techniques, as well as other associated technical skills and knowledge.  A winter storm made for some classic and picturesque climbing the entire weekend.

Kevin, Brant, and David are considering coming back later this summer for our Kautz Glacier Climb on Mt. Rainier or next winter for one of our Ecuador Volcanoes Expeditions as they continue to gain experience in the mountains and prepare themselves for more climbs, trips, and fun in them there hills.

Respectfully submitted.



Winter Storm San Juans

“Inch and Hour”. Winter storm in the San Juans.

Belayed Rappel

Rappelling into the Ouray Ice Park

Cyborg Crampons

Bridging the gap, courtesy BD Cyborgs.