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Learn to Lead Ice (Safer)

Ice Progression Sessions
January 29, 2013
Ice Park to the Backcountry
February 6, 2013

Here at SJMG we pride ourselves on having a pretty liberal policy towards teaching our guests to lead climb. Many self taught climbers falsely believe that you hire a guide to put the rope up the routes you want to climb. While we are happy to oblige, we also pride ourselves on empowering our guests to safely and efficiently get the ropes up themselves.

Whether it is top roping or multi pitch climbing, we teach our guests the most up to date, safest, and most efficient bely and anchoring principals and then we strive to help folks apply those principals to a variety of scenarios. With SJMG, you wont just memorize a method and wonder why it isn’t working when you are out by yourself. You will grasp the concepts so that you can apply them to the infinite number of novel situations you will find out there.

You see, the thing is, ice climbing can be quite safe. With solid climbing skills, and a true understanding of how the systems work, a climber can make good decisions that will get him or her to the top of a climb comfortably and in control. Gone are the days of numb fingers, quivering forearms, and heart-pounding fear. Even though falling is still not allowed for ice leaders, modern ice climbing should be fun and relaxed. Let us show you how!

(bonus points if you can name these routes. Hint: they are all in the San Juans)

Enjoy these links to help make your climbing safer and right some common ice climbing misconceptions:


Placing Ice Screws

Petzl Ice Anchors Test

Marc Beverly anchor testing article. Includes V-threads, A-threads, and re-bored ice screws

Ice screw strength analysis

Fall on Ice with Will Gadd’s analysis

Screamers or not?

Staying warm