Route Options

Lavender Col (3rd Class)

Mt Sneffels standard route from Yankee Boy Basin is a popular scramble for 14ers aspirants and local tourists alike. Despite its popularity, it is not to be underestimted. There is plenty of hands on movement and a slip in the wrong place could have serious consequences. We guide lots of folks up this classic climb every summer, and everyone is very grateful for the rope, helmet, and intimate knowledge of the route that our guides provide.

SW Ridge (4th/Easy 5th Class)

The SW ridge of Mt. Sneffels is a super high quality ridge climb soaring up above Blue Lakes Pass. It involves some tricky routefinding and low 5th class moves. Earlier in the season the direct start to the SW ridge is a beautiful snow couloir leading directly to the rock crux and avoiding large amounts of circuitous talus navigation. Once on the ridge itself, exposure and grand views dominate every direction. Fun scrambling on or near the crest leads dramatically to the summit. This is one of the greatest routes in the San Juans and a perfect introduction to more challenging mountaineering.

N. Buttress/Snake Couloir (5.6/60° Snow & Ice)

The North side of Mt Sneffels is a very different place than the well traveled South side. Poised majestically over Blaine Basin, The North Face is well guarded from any easy ascent. The most popular route on the North side is the Snake or “Dogleg” Couloir, thus named for its dramatic left turn around 13,000ft. The snake is over 2000ft of steep snow and ice with a challenging rock climbing finish directly onto the summit block. Scramblers on the summit are often surprised when we come popping up out of the depths of the North onto the top!

Training & Follow Up Climbs

As always, being in excellent physical shape is an important component of our our programs. A good mixture of cardiovascular fitness, muscular fitness, and especially core strength will help you to maximize the potential rewards that are possible on a great climbing trip.

Before Your Trip

The Mt. Sneffels 14’er climb is a moderately strenuous trip conducted at altitudes above 10,000 feet. Though the actual hiking and climbing level required for this trip is not difficult, the best training regimen would include a mixture of cardiovascular fitness training (running, biking, hiking etc.), and muscular/core fitness exercises. The addition of some Yoga/stretching exercises will help to insure that you maintain good muscular flexibility as well.

For the Mt. Sneffels climb you should be ready for:

• Hiking approximately 6 miles round trip
• Climbing with a small daypack at altitudes up to 14,000′
• Moderate climbing difficulty depending on route choice
• Wilderness travel

Follow Up Climbs

• Chicago Basin 14’ers
• Wilson Peak
• Vestal Peak – The Wham Ridge

Ouray, Colorado: Getting Here

Ouray is located in the SW corner of Colorado, approximately 30 minutes south of Montrose. Known as “The Switzerland of America”, the town of Ouray is a vibrant outdoor oriented community. All local businesses are very friendly to the ice climbers who flock each winter to climb in the Ouray Ice Park and surrounding areas.

The best option for flying to the area is to fly into Montrose, CO. Many airline options exist, and most connections originate from Denver, CO, however, many airlines now offer direct flights into Montrose – especially during the summer and winter months.

It is also possible to fly into Grand Junction, Durango, Telluride, or Denver CO. It may be necessary to rent a car and drive to Ouray if you’d like to fly into one of these airports.

Below are some approximate driving times if you’d like to drive to Ouray. If you plan on renting a car, please consider the winter weather when selecting your vehicle and at a minimum choose something that offers either front wheel or all-wheel drive.

• Montrose, CO: 45 minutes
• Durango, CO: 2 hours
• Denver, CO: 5.5 hours

Ouray has a number of great hotels, suites, and vacation rentals for you to stay in while you’re in the area. Give our office a call at 800-642-5389 if you have any questions about what would suit you best for this trip!

• Ouray Chalet
• Ouray Comfort Inn
• China Clipper Inn
• Sneffels Suite
• Sneffels House

Program Policies

Registration & Cancellation

Advance Registration is required for this program.  You have the option to either call our office and register via phone or utilize our secure Online Reservation System.  All participants must read and sign an Assumption of Risks/Liability Waiver and agree to our Reservations and Cancellations Policies.

Program Inclusions

• Guiding and Instruction with an AMGA Certified/Trained Guide
• All climbing gear (harness, helmet, ropes, etc.)
• Round-trip transportation to and from the climbing area and our office

Program Exclusions

• Transportation to Ouray, CO
• Hotel costs before, during, or after the program
• Guide gratuity
• Lunch food or snacks
• Personal hiking/climbing clothing
• Trip Cancellation Insurance (recommended)
• Costs associated with weather delays or other variables beyond the control of San Juan Mountain Guides