Ama Dablam Expedition Itinerary

The itinerary has been developed over years of experience and by trying the different options that the fantastic local logistics have to offer. Elias de Andres, our lead guide for Nepal trips, has carefully taken into account the many variables to ensure that the time is best spent while in the mountains, maximizing your chances for success, and leaving behind standard “side add-ons” that many outfitters offer, unnecessarily delaying and lengthening your trip. We have decided to forego the famous “Flight to Lukla,” as these airplanes no longer fly from Kathmandu in the climbing season, forcing climbers to take a dangerous full-day jeep ride to Ramechhap, a town with no infrastructure, and that provides very little comfort in case of a likely weather delay of a day or two. A chopper ride directly into Namche buys us some time and allows us to avoid logistical issues characteristic of an underdeveloped country.

A fall trek through the Khumbu Valley provides a tranquil alternative to the hustle and bustle of the busy spring season in the Everest region. The cool, crisp air and changing colors of the forested hillsides delight the senses during a time of year when trekkers can typically enjoy long stretches of clear days. We take a less travelled route, hiking up and over Renjo La Pass to drop down into the serene alpine village of Gokyo. After relaxing for an evening along the shores of Dudh Pokhari Lake, where yaks and wetland birds wander about, we venture further up valley exploring the series of glacial lakes that lead us to the base of Cho Oyu’s South Face. On our return from Cho Oyu Base Camp, we descend through the Gokyo Valley, giving us the chance to experience a different collection of Sherpa-run lodges.

Kyajo Ri stands at 20,295′, above the Gokyo Valley. The climbing consists of a few pitches of moderate rock climbing, followed by 10 pitches of up to 60degrees ice climbing to an airy summit. Climbing this peak in an alpine style assures optimal preparation for Ama Dablam.

After climbing Kyajo Ri, we merge into the classic Everest path towards the base of Ama Dablam, going through Tengboche where the largest Buddhist monastery of the Khumbu Valley is located. Well acclimatized and technically ready for our summit bid on Ama Dablam, our single push strategy on this majestic peak provides an opportunity to move quickly through the challenging terrain and to enjoy a lighter and faster way of tackling this sought-after summit.

The SJMG Difference

SJMG has been dedicated to train and guide climbers on technical alpine terrain for decades. Our expertise in leading small expeditions worldwide by some of the best guides in the field is unmatched. Combining these two elements allows us to offer you an exotic yet challenging expedition to put your technical abilities to the test, while enjoying a worry-free leisurely expedition through the Himalaya. Our Himalayan expeditions will be led by our senior guide Elias de Andres, who has a decade of experience in the Nepali Himalaya and has a long relationship with our local outfitter. Elias will guarantee the best odds for your success.

Days 1-2:

Travel

Day 3: Reception in Kathmandu International Airpirt (KTM)

We arrive at the Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM) in Kathmandu and transfer to our hotel for some rest and recovery. Overnight in Kathmandu.

Day 4: Fly to Namche 3,444M

We take a helicopter flight to historic Namche Bazaar, the gateway to the high Himalayas and the Sherpa Region of the Khumbu. Namche served as a trading market between the Sherpa people and nomad Tibetans headed south through the mountains

Day 5: Acclimatization in Namche 3,444M

We start building upon our acclimatization by going for a short hike around town, glimpsing the imposing peaks higher up the valley.

Days 6-8: Trek to Gokyo 4,040M – 4,410M – 4,790M

We start our hike up the Ngozumba Valley, shaped by the longest glacier in the Khumbu, going over the Mong La Pass, and up valley under magnificent Cholatse Peak. Spending nights at Dhole (4,040m) and Machhermo (4,410m) on the way, we assure proper acclimatization.

Day 9: Acclimatization in Gokyo 4,790M

We spend the day in the Gokyo area continuing to acclimatize. We’ll take a day stroll to Cho Oyo. Base camp at 5,400m on easy trails to gain some altitude and enjoy some of the best views in the Himalayas.

Day 10: Trek to Thame 3,819M

On the biggest day of the trek, we’ll climb over Renjo Pass at 5,388m and descendto Thame. We’ll have circumnavigated Kyajo Ri, and the views of it on our way to Thame are astonishing, including our climbing route.

Day 11: trek to Khumjung 3,780M

A very short day takes us to the village of Khumjung, where we’ll settle to rest and prepare for the climb. Unlike Namche, Khumjung is a quieter town, with a true local feel compared to busy Namche.

Day 12: in Khumjung 3,780M

Rest and prepare for the climb of Kyajo Ri.

Day 13-15: Climbing Kyajo Ri 6,186M

We start our climb, heading to base camp on steep hills above town, changing gears towards our climbing mission. Establishing intermediate C1 (5,200M) and C2 (5,700M), Kyajo Ri provides a secluded and demanding yet rewarding climb.

Day 16: Contingency day

Day 17: Rest day in Khumjung

We take the time to rest, recover, laundry and get ready for Ama.

Day 18: Hike to Pangboche

From Khumjung, we start towards Ama Dablam, going to Tengboche, the highest monastery in the Khumbu, and continuing through Pangboche, site of the oldest Monastery in the Khumbu, where we’ll get a “puja” ceremony as a blessing for our climb.

Day 19: Hike To Base Camp 4400m

After a blessing from the pangboche Lama, and a hearty breakfast, we cover the short distance to Base Camp.

Day 20: Move to Camp 1

The day starts early, as the journey to Camp 1 is long. An easy trail for the 1st half of the day rapidly transforms into a boulder field, and then into the first rock slabs of the route to be climbed. Camp 1 is perched already on the SW Ridge, and the evening views above the clouds over the Khumbu are nothing but spectacular.

Day 21: Move to Camp 3

The climb to Camp 3 is the most technical of the climb up on Ama Dablam. Protected with fixed rope, moderate 5th class terrain on the exposed ridge brings us to the famous Yellow Tower, site for Camp 2. While very aesthetic, this camp is small, dangerous and a short way from Camp 1. In effort to have a shorter summit day and to beat the crowds, we continue on to Camp 3, leaving the rock and moving on steep snow and ice. Expect the best sunset of your life!!!

Day 22: Summit day, descend to BC.

Well situated for the summit push, we can reach the top by sunrise and be back down to Camp 3 for a second breakfast. The steep final slopes to the summit are equally equipped with fixed rope offering a smooth climb and descent. Now it’s all downwards to the lower camps, and eventually, an evening arrival to Base Camp for a well deserved dinner.

Days 23-26: 4 extra contingency days (weather, etc.)

Day 27: Fly to KTM

With the job done, we take a helicopter ride back to Kathmandu. We celebrate with a well earned dinner.

Day 28: Fly home

Training & Follow Up Climbs

As always, being in excellent physical shape is an important component of our our programs. A good mixture of cardiovascular fitness, muscular fitness, and especially core strength will help you to maximize the potential rewards that are possible on a great climbing trip.

Before Your Trip

The Ama Dablam and Kyajo Ri Expedition requires our participants to have previous technical climbing experience.  At a minimum, participants should have completed our Alpine Expedition Prep Course and a few days of Private Ice Guiding on ice routes such as Stairway to Heaven and Whorehouse Ice Hose.  Additionally, team members on this expedition should have previous multi-day expedition experience on climbs such as Ecuador’s Volcanoes, Denali’s West Buttress, or similar climbs in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge.

We take the screening for the Ama Dablam climb seriously, so please get in touch with our office if you have any questions about your fitness for the climb.  Team members should engage in a rigorous cardiovascular and upper/lower body training regimen.  The Uphill Athlete as well as Cold Fear have excellent training resources available to aspiring alpinists.

For the Ama Dablam and Kyajo Ri Expedition you should be ready for:

• Travel in Nepal
• Climbing 55 – 70 degree neve & ice at altitudes up to 6000 meters
• 12 – 15 hour summit days and early alpine starts
• Fickle weather, cold temperatures, warm temperatures, delays, other factors beyond our control

Follow Up Climbs

• Denali via The West Rib Expedition
• Cody, WY Ice Climbing
• Backcountry Ice Seminar
• Alpamayo Expedition

Lukla Bazaar: Getting There

For the purposes of practicality, all of our Nepal programs begin and end in Kathmandu, Nepal.  However, we spend minimal time in Kathmandu and quickly transfer our program to Lukla Bazaar (11,300′), the  gateway to the Sherpa Region of the Khumbu.  Our itinerary calls for travel to Lukla by helicopter, arranged by San Juan Mountain Guides.

We require our participants to fly into Kathmandu, Nepal. The International Airport is a busy hub for airline travel and many options exist. Most flights from the US to Kathmandu originate in New York NY, Washington DC, Los Angeles, CA.  We exit Kathmandu and transfer to Lukla by helicopter

We provide lodging in Nepal for the duration of the program.

Program Policies

Registration & Cancellation

Advance Registration is required for this program.  You have the option to either call our office and register via phone or utilize our secure Online Reservation System.  All participants must read and sign an Assumption of Risks/Liability Waiver and agree to our Reservations and Cancellations Policies.

Inclusions

• Guiding, trip leadership, and logistical organization by one of our tenured Himalayan guides
• Ground Transportation in Kathmandu
• Helicopter in/out of the mountains
• 2 nights in Kathmandu and all the lodging in the mountains
• Breakfasts and Dinners in the mountains
• Park Entrance Fees and trekking/climbing permits
• Expedition support with porters; we make sure our local staff is insured and accredited

Exclusions

• Transportation to Kathmandu, Nepal
• Additional hotel costs before or after the program or those not planned on the itinerary
• Personal Lunch Food
• Meals or drinks in towns, cities, and hotels
• Trip cancellation insurance – recommended
• Personal alpine climbing clothing
• Costs associated with early returns, weather delays, or other factors beyond our control
• Final transfer from Kathmandu hotel to airport
• Guide gratuity