Denali’s West Rib Expedition Itinerary

Itinerary Note

As with all climbs in the Alaska Range, it’s best to approach this expedition with a flexible attitude and be prepared to move camp, climb, and generally get things done when the opportunity presents itself.  Weather, route conditions, team dynamics, and a host of other factors can influence how our team decides to adjust the itinerary to give us the best chance for success and safety while on the mountain.

Day 1

Meet in Anchorage. Stay in a hotel.

Day 2

Drive to Talkeetna and check in with the NPS.  Fly into Base Camp.

Day 3

Move to Camp 1 at 7800′

Day 4

Carry to 10,000′ and return to sleep at Camp 1 (7800′)

Day 5

Move to Camp 2 at 11,200′

Day 6

Back-carry kit from the cache at 10,000.

Day 7

Carry supplies around Windy Corner at 13,500′.  Return to and sleep at camp 2 (11.200′).

Day 8

Move to Camp 3 – Genet Basin – at 14,200′

Day 9

Back-carry from Windy Corner and sleep at Camp 3 (14,200′)

Day 10

Carry supplies to cache at 16,400′ on the West Rib and return to sleep at Camp 3 (14,200′)

Day 11

Descend back to Camp 1 (7800′) and the entrance to the NE Fork of the Kahiltna

Day 12

Move up the NE Fork of the Kahiltna to the base of the Chicken Couloir.

Day 13

Fix lines up the Chicken Couloir.  Then return to camp at 11,000′.

Day 14

Ascend the Chicken Couloir and to Ice Dome Camp (13,400′). We’ll climb the entire 1,200′ couloir, using a mix of fixed lines, belayed pitches and simul-climbing.  This is the “real deal,” with steep ice and snow, exposure and a dramatic setting for some great climbing!

Days 15 – 16

Continue up the West Rib!

Day 17

Continue up the West Rib to High Camp and our cache at 16,400′

Day 18

Summit day is long, physical, and mentally challenging.  The climbing is mostly on show, although we’ll probably climb through a couple of rocky sections as well.  The steepest section is the last bit before we top out near the” Football Field,” at about 19,400′.  The descent can take as long as the ascent, as we must move deliberately through exposed sections, which can make for somewhat slow going.  Plan on 12-20 hours of climbing up and down.

Days 19 – 24

Contingency days for weather, descent, etc.

Training & Follow Up Climbs

As always, being in excellent physical shape is an important component of our our programs. A good mixture of cardiovascular fitness, muscular fitness, and especially core strength will help you to maximize the potential rewards that are possible on a great climbing trip.

Before Your Trip

The Denali West Rib Expedition is a serious undertaking and it is essential that you prepare thoroughly both mentally and physically.  In addition, the West Rib Expedition requires a higher level of technical skill so previous steep alpine climbing and/or ice climbing experience is required.  Previous completion of our Denali Prep Course, and other high altitude expeditions such as Ecuador’s Volcanoes is suggested prior to enrolling in this expedition.  Our Ice Climbing Courses also represent an excellent investment for the technical skills you need to have for this program.

For the Denali West Rib Expedition you should be ready for:

• Backcountry travel and life on an Alaskan glacier
• 18 – 24 days on a glaciated high-altitude mountain
• Cold temperatures, fickle weather, delays, and other factors beyond control
• Carrying a pack loaded with food and gear up to 65 lbs.

Follow Up Climbs

• Cody, WY Ice Climbing
• Backcountry Ice Seminar
• Alpamayo Expedition

Talkeetna, Alaska: Getting There

Talkeetna, Alaska is the gateway to Denali National Park and the myriad of mountaineering objectives found within.  The small historic town swells during the climbing season (April – July) as mountaineers from all backgrounds attempt climbs in the Alaska Range.  The town boasts a few good restaurants, hotels, and plenty of small planes!

The best option for flying to the area is to fly into Anchorage, Alaska.  We will pick you up at the airport in a rental car, or you may arrange your own transportation to Talkeetna. We will pick you up at the airport or at your hotel and will provide transportation for the remainder of the trip.

Driving to Alaska is an experience like no other.  If you’re into the “full experience” consider driving up to Alaska on the AlCan.  It might just turn out to be the highlight of your trip! We will pick you up at the airport or at your hotel and will provide transportation for the remainder of the trip.

• Seattle, WA to Anchorage, AK: 34 hours
• Ouray, CO to Anchorage, AK: 48 hours

If flying into Anchorage early you’ll want to arrange lodging for at least 1 night in Anchorage.  Beyond that we’ll be staying in Talkeetna for 1 night.  We arrange for lodging in Talkeetna, typically at the Swiss Alaska.

• The Courtyard Marriot @ Airport
• The Swiss Alaska – Talkeetna

Program Policies

Registration & Cancellation

Advance Registration is required for this program.  You have the option to either call our office and register via phone or utilize our secure Online Reservation System.  All participants must read and sign an Assumption of Risks/Liability Waiver and agree to our Reservations and Cancellations Policies.

Inclusions

• Guiding and trip leadership with an AMGA Certified Guides
• Round trip transportation from Anchorage to Talkeetna
• 1 night of lodging in Talkeetna
• All mountain food (breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the backcountry)
• Group camping and cooking equipment (tents, stoves, etc.)
• Group climbing and technical equipment (ropes, etc.)

Exclusions

• Transportation to Durango, CO
• Hotel costs before, during, or after the program
• Guide gratuity
• Lunch food or snacks
• Personal hiking/climbing clothing
• Trip Cancellation Insurance (recommended)
• Costs associated with weather delays or other variables beyond the control of San Juan Mountain Guides