San Juan Ice Conditions
Ouray, Silverton, and Telluride Ice
We take pride in staying current on Ouray Ice Conditions and for all major ice climbs in the Ouray, Silverton, and Telluride areas. Check back often for updates, pictures, and trip reports!
Update 12/28/13: This is a once in 5 – 10 year cycle. All major climbs are in condition, and some are the fattest we have seen in some time. BBB, Talisman, Sapphire Bullets are all in. Ribbon, Ames, Hosers Highway are fatter than usual and climbing well. If you want to climb the classics I wouldn’t miss this season.
Ouray Ice Park [Updated 12/28/13]
The Ouray Ice Park is open! Climbing areas south of the Upper Bridge are open but climbs north of the lower bridge will not open until the following weekend, December 21st. Conditions are excellent for the early opening this year.
|Ouray Ice Park Climbing Areas||Status|
|School Room to Lead Area||Open|
|Lead Area/Upper Bridge||Open|
|Between the Bridges||Open|
|Sh%thouse & Gazebo||Open|
Camp Bird Road Climbs [Updated 12/28/13]
The Camp Bird Road and Falls Creek climbs are all in excellent condition. Ribbon, BBB, Talisman are all seeing regular ascents, though 2 climbers narrowly missed a pillar breaking off of the Talisman. Skylight side of the road is getting climbed regularly already and the recent cold snap has been just what the doctor ordered for that area.
|Camp Bird Area Ice Climb||Status|
|Racing Stripes||In for now. Life is short – sublimation starting|
|The Ribbon||In. Fat. Watch avalanche danger.|
|Birdbrain Boulevard||Getting climbed. Ice on crux pitches.|
|The Talisman||Getting climbed. Watch the pillars overhanging 1st pitch.|
Ouray Valley & HWY 550 [Updated 12/28/13]
The recent cold snap and forecast looks good for this area. Sunny skies predicted for the next week but daytime highs and nighttime lows are looking positive for prolonged formation of the climbs near Engineer Pass. As always with this area – look carefully at the quality of the ice and plan to start early and end early.
|Ouray Valley & HWY 550 Ice Climb||Status|
|Dexter Creek Slabs||In|
|Cascade Falls||Lower pitches out, but Charmin Tube in|
|Oak Creek||Thin. Prepare for adventure style.|
|Sunslpash/Solar Circus||Not yet|
|The Dungeon (North Silver Creek)||Not yet|
|Kennedy’s Gully||Too sunny. Check back when it gets cold again.|
|Gravity’s Rainbow||Too sunny. Check back when it gets cold again.|
Silverton Eureka Canyon [Updated 12/28/13]
Click here for the current avalanche hazard forecast for the Northern San Juans before you go!
The climbs in Eureka are all looking good, some are the fattest that we have seen in many years. In particular, don’t miss out on Goldrush and Hosers Highway is also looking great. Right side of the 3rd pitch on Whorehouse is a little funky this year.
|Eureka Canyon Ice Climb||Status|
|Dukes of Hazzard||Forming. May be climbable|
|Giant Steps||Looks in, but lots of sun recently.|
|Whorehouse Ice Hose||In. A little funky on right side 3rd pitch.|
|Highway to Hell||In and fat. Watch avy hazard.|
|Stairway to Heaven||In. Huge this year|
|Hoser’s Highway||In. Pillar looking good and fat|
|Gully’s 1 & 2||In and Fat|
|Goldrush||Excellent condition this year|
|Tempered by Fire/Fat City||In|
South Mineral Creek [Updated 12/15/13]
Climbs are all in great condition, but this recent storms have shut vehicle acces to this area down for the season. You can still approach on skis or snowshoes but avy hazards exist on many of the major climbs.
|South Mineral Creek Ice Climb||Status|
|Road Conditions to Climbs||Road Closed|
|Direct North Face||IN|
|Sundance||Probably In with recent cold temps|
Telluride Area [Updated 12/28/13]
…where the big kids go to get pumped on ice.
|Telluride Area Ice Climb||Status|
|Bridalveil Falls||In. Huge this year|
|Ames Ice Hose||Seen a few ascents this year.|
|Sapphire Bullets||In but hard climbing|
|Ames Falls||In, big this year|