San Juan Ice Conditions
Ouray, Silverton, and Telluride Ice
We take pride in staying current on Ouray Ice Conditions and for all major ice climbs in the Ouray, Silverton, and Telluride areas. Check back often for updates, pictures, and trip reports!
Update 12/08/13: All major climbs in the area are in condition. The Ribbon, Bird Brain Boulevard, and The Talisman are seeing regular ascents. Eureka Canyon routes such as Stairway, Whorehouse, etc. are all in condition and also seeing regular ascents – though the avalanche danger is not to be trifled with right now. Travel cautiously! Whorehouse in particular has come in a little funky this year and the right side of the 3rd pitch isn’t looking great, though the left side is great as usual.
The temperature forecast is about as good as it gets for this time of year and ice conditions/route formation. Check out the pics below – Kennedy’s Gully and Gravity’s Rainbow are very close to coming into condition (Gravity’s may have already seen an ascent over the weekend). If the temperature regime and forecast holds both climbs could stay in condition for a little while – better get while the gettin’ is good.
Ouray Ice Park [Updated 12/08/13]
The Ouray Ice Park is scheduled to open on Saturday, December 14th! Climbing areas south of the Upper Bridge will open but climbs north of the lower bridge will not open until the following weekend, December 21st. Conditions are excellent for the early opening this year.
|Ouray Ice Park Climbing Areas||Status|
|South Park||Opens December 14th|
|New Funteer||Opens December 14th|
|School Room to Lead Area||Opens December 14th|
|Lead Area/Upper Bridge||Opens December 14th|
|Between the Bridges||Opens December 21st|
|Scottish Gullies||Opens December 21st|
|Five Fingers||Opens December 21st|
|Sh%thouse & Gazebo||Opens December 21st|
Camp Bird Road Climbs [Updated 12/08/13]
The Camp Bird Road and Falls Creek climbs are all in excellent condition. Ribbon, BBB, Talisman are all seeing regular ascents, though 2 climbers narrowly missed a pillar breaking off of the Talisman. Skylight side of the road is getting climbed regularly already and the recent cold snap has been just what the doctor ordered for that area.
|Camp Bird Area Ice Climb||Status|
|The Ribbon||In. Fat. Watch avalanche danger.|
|Birdbrain Boulevard||Getting climbed. Ice on crux pitches.|
|The Talisman||Getting climbed. Watch the pillars overhanging 1st pitch.|
Ouray Valley & HWY 550 [Updated 12/08/13]
The recent cold snap and forecast looks good for this area. Sunny skies predicted for the next week but daytime highs and nighttime lows are looking positive for prolonged formation of the climbs near Engineer Pass. As always with this area – look carefully at the quality of the ice and plan to start early and end early.
|Ouray Valley & HWY 550 Ice Climb||Status|
|Dexter Creek Slabs||A little thin but getting better|
|Cascade Falls||Not In Yet, but in a few days???|
|Oak Creek||Thin but close|
|Horsetail Falls||In, first pitch wet as usual. Lots of snow recently.|
|Sunslpash/Solar Circus||Not yet|
|The Dungeon (North Silver Creek)||Not yet|
|Kennedy’s Gully||Looks close. May get climbed in the next few days……|
|Gravity’s Rainbow||Looks close. Saw an ascent over the weekend.|
Silverton Eureka Canyon [Updated 12/08/13]
Click here for the current avalanche hazard forecast for the Northern San Juans before you go!
The climbs in Eureka are all looking good, but recent snow and avalanche problems present a real hazard right now. The weather forecast is better for this week, but cold temps may keep the danger above many climbs around for a little while. As always with Eureka, be very cautious approaching climbs like Stairway and be skeptical of bowls above climbs. Whorehouse is a little funky on the first pitch and left variation of the 3rd pitch is better.
|Eureka Canyon Ice Climb||Status|
|Dukes of Hazzard||Forming. May be climbable|
|Giant Steps||Maybe if the temps stay like this…..|
|Whorehouse Ice Hose||In. A little funky.|
|Highway to Hell||In and fat. Watch avy hazard.|
|Stairway to Heaven||In. Watch avy hazard.|
|Hoser’s Highway||In. Pillar looking good|
|Gully’s 1 & 2||In and Fat|
|Goldrush||In early but not looking as good recently|
|Tempered by Fire||In. Good early season romp|
South Mineral Creek [Updated 12/08/13]
Climbs are all in great condition, but this recent storms have shut vehicle acces to this area down for the season. You can still approach on skis or snowshoes but avy hazards exist on many of the major climbs.
|South Mineral Creek Ice Climb||Status|
|Road Conditions to Climbs||Road Closed|
|Direct North Face||IN|
|Sundance||Probably In with recent cold temps|
Telluride Area [Updated 12/08/13]
…where the big kids go to get pumped on ice.
|Telluride Area Ice Climb||Status|
|Bridalveil Falls||Forming, getting close with recent cold temps.|
|Ames Ice Hose||Seen a few ascents this year.|
|Ingram Falls||Update soon|
|The Fang||Update soon|
|Silverpick Falls||Update soon|
|Ames Falls||Update soon|