Elias and his crew are safely installed at basecamp and are prepping for their climb of Ham ‘N Eggs. If all goes well they will be climbing today and tonight with a potential lay over at Englishman’s Col. It looks like the weather is holding for them so this is probably the window they need to climb the route.
We’ll keep you posted!
Greetings from Alaska!
Earlier today, SJMG Guide Elias Des Andres Martos and his two guests, Kim Krizelman and Will Ingold flew to Anchorage, AK and drove to Talkeetna in preparation for their trip to the Moose’s Tooth via the Ham ‘n Eggs Couloir.
Trusty bush pilots from Talkeenta Air Taxi gave them the thumbs up that instead of waiting a day that it would be best to fly into the range. So they packed their gear and hopped on the Turbo Otter to head into the Alaska Range and the Ruth Gorge where they will set up camp and wait for a good weather window to attempt to climb this inspiring route. Stay tuned for updates!
The team has arrived back to Lima and everyone is on their way back to the US.
SJMG Senior Guide Andres Marin described their final few days on the mountain with the recent communication:
Good morning! The sun is out and the beautiful views of the Andes are all around us. Currently we are drying everything out. Unfortunately we don’t have enough time to attempt Alpamayo since we are leaving tomorrow, so we will do a hike towards Tauyliraju and Punta Union were breathtaking views await. A bit disappointed the outcome but nothing to do against the weather we just had to endure for the past 4.5 days!
The Alpamayo Expedition is going fine. The team is at Moraine Camp (16,049 ft.). They are having some wet rainy weather and are hoping that it will clear soon. We wish them a safe journey.
All is well with our team on the Alpamayo Expedition. They enjoyed a rest day at Base Camp today. Tomorrow they will head to Moraine Camp (16,076 ft).
Our Expedition to Alpamayo is doing great at Base Camp (13,500ft). Today they did a carry to Moraine Camp (16,076 ft). Having good times and great weather so far. Best to the team led by @andresmarin22 on their journey!
Alpamayo 2017 team update! Andres Marin and his team travelled to Llamacorral in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca. From there they trekked into Alpamayo Basecamp and experienced great weather and great views along the way. Everyone is feeling well and ready for the next push! Stay tuned!!
The Alpamayo Expedition team led by SJMG Andrés Marin is doing great. This morning they left Huaraz and en route to the LlamaCoral Camp where they will make their first camp. We receive IN Reach Messages from the team daily. Stay tuned! We’ll be posting expedition updates! We’re wishing them a wonderful journey in the Cordillera Blanca of the Peruvian Andes.
We love having Jim on our roster of guides. His sense of humor is infectious. You may find yourself busting out jokes with him in minutes. At times you’ll ask yourself is he joking, and he may be… but when he’s serious which he also is often, you’ll know it. Jim has a great way of making you feel at ease immediately. He exemplifies what we think of when we think of what a good guide is. He’s someone you’d follow into a place which is far out beyond your comfort into that adventurous, yet scary place, that we all want to go to but wouldn’t go alone. He exudes trust and experience. He’s climbed extensively in the San Juans and all around the world. He’s climbed the Central Alaska Range, the Canadian Rockies, Peru’s Cordillera Blanca, Argentine and Chilean Patagonia (Fitz Roy via two different routes), back home in Black Canyon of the Gunnison, many desert towers, and first ascents in the Southwest desert, the Central Alaska Range and Patagonia.
We asked him about being a guide. Here’s our Q&A with Jim T.
Rock or Ice? Which do you love to climb more?
I’m a climber year round… the only thing that changes is what I wear. But I’m a grass is greener person. In March I can’t wait to drop the boots for some rock shoes. In Rocktober I can’t wait swing the tools.
How long have you been a San Juan Mountain Guide?
Since I escaped from prison and changed my name.
Where did you grow up?
I grew up in Massachusetts and I will always root for New England sports teams.
As a child, what did you want to be when you grew up?
Who said I want to grow up?
Where did you first climb ice?
My first climb was Willey’s Slide on Mt. Willard in New Hampshire, sharing 1 set of tools on a multi-pitch Ice Climb. I bought my first tools and poons that evening. They are probably still on my credit card.
Did you have a mentor?
I have had exceptional mentors in my life. The one who stands out the most is Mark Miller.
What do you think every climber should learn?
I think every climber needs to learn (and practice) getting off the damn internet!!! Get outside, have fun and enjoy the people you are climbing with.
Maps or GPS?
What do you like to do on your day off?
I love hanging out with my wife and our dog and trying to convince them to go fly fishing. (the dog always goes.)
How different are your personal days from your guiding days in the mountains?
The best days guiding are very similar to my personal days.
Before you pack for a trip in the mountains does your packing resemble one of those neatly arranged ads or a messy gear ball on the floor?
I just take as little as possible and plan on being scared and hungry.
What was the most memorable trip you’ve guided?
Legally or otherwise?
How many pairs of gloves do you wear for ice climbing? What are your favorite gloves for Ice climbing?
2-3. Depends on the temps, thin dexterous gloves
What are your favorite ice tools?
Black Diamond Cobras
What boots do you wear ice climbing?
Asolo Eiger GV (Thanks Bruce! They are awesome boots!)
What’s your favorite all-round pack?
Hyperlite Ice Pack
One piece of advice for an aspiring guide? Don’t you have a joke about pizza?
I never planned on being a guide, I just had great mentors and went climbing. Go climb for a decade and then start thinking about if you want guide.
(Note. We did an extensive background check to make sure Jim has a clean criminal record, he does. We also found out he has a degree in Environmental Science from the University of New England. So that part about liking the Patriots was no joke.)
The Elite Mixed Competition originally started by Jeff Lowe has historically been a wild, world-class event! This year our own San Juan Mountain Guides’ Andres Marin joined Vince Anderson for setting the Elite Mixed Competition route. After having participated as a competitor in World Cup Climbing Competitions and in this same event for years, Andres got to put a touch of his style into the setting of the route. We asked Andres a few questions about what it was like behind the scenes.
Q. How does the Elite Mixed Climbing Competition compare to the World Cup?
A. The Ouray Ice Festival Elite Mixed Competition is the biggest competition like it in the US and it’s unlike any other. It has real rock, real ice, and it’s a wild competition. The route has been a bit of a wild card. This year both routes (men and women’s) started with grabbing holds with your hand.
Q. What do you think about when you’re setting a route?
A. We all have our own styles of climbing and each setter has their own style. So you try to imagine how the climber is going to see the route, and we all have our own way of seeing, which is cool because we each bring our own creativity to the mixture. You don’t want everyone to send. You don’t want everyone to not send. Ines read her route as it was intended, like you would in the mountains. She pulled the crux move. I was hoping she made it to the top.
Q. What was your vision for the climb?
A. Our vision for competition was for the experience to be just like climbing in the mountains. Sometimes you have to put your tools away and use your hands. It was a mixture of alpine climbing style, adding in the Russian holds, and putting it all together. Some climbers were so focused on their tools they forgot about other possible movements.
Q. What were some of the challenges in creating the route?
A. The biggest crux was a week before the competition. Everything came down to the eleventh hour. We had planned the moves based on Krukonogi holds from Russia. These holds are made only for mixed climbing and most often used in the World Cup, when they got held up in customs, and got sent back. Krukonogi drove them to Finland and shipped them from there. The box arrived in Ouray just six days before the competition. Then the morning of the comp, with the holds finally in place it was still unclear if there would be ice between the route and the bottom of the structure. Up until an hour before the competition the Ouray Ice Park, Ice Farmers were out there adding water to route connecting this section.
Q. What was a highlight of the competition for you?
A. Watching Nathan top it out and knowing that The Chronolith goes. Also seeing Ryan take the shot to win it.
Q. Would you set another route for the Ouray Ice Festival?
A. For sure!!! I had a ton of fun working with Vince. Plus I got to learn a lot.
2017 Men’s Results: 1st place Ryan Vachon, 2nd place Nathan Kutcher, 3rd place Will Mayo
2017 Women’s Results: 1st place Ines Papert, 2nd place Sarah Heuniken, 3rd place Katie Bono
Congrats to all of the competitors!