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2017 Ouray Ice Festival Clinics

The Ouray Ice Park puts on an excellent festival! The 22nd annual Ouray Ice Festival is the annual gathering of the tribe and the main fundraiser for the Ouray Ice Park. There are still clinics available! Add your name to the waitlist for clinics by emailing us at info@mtnguide.net

List of Clinics Still Available (updated of 12/02/16)

Friday AM

Clinic 14 – Intro to Ice, Hyperlite – Ryan Vachon – 1 spot

 

Friday PM

Clinic 36 – Adaptive Ice Climbing, Paradox Sports – 4 spots

 

Saturday AM

Clinic 48 – Skills for the Ice Leader, Arc’teryx – Jesse Huey – 1 spot

 

Saturday PM

Clinic 65 – Adaptive Ice Climbing, Paradox Sports – Chad Jukes – 4 spots

 

Sunday AM

Clinic 73 – Leashless Climbing / Tool Techniques, Black Diamond – Hayden Kennedy – 4 spots

Clinic 81 – Belays & Transitions, La Sportiva – Will Mayo – 1 spot

 

List of Seminars Still Available (as of 10/23/16)

Thursday

T1 – Guided Ascent of Whorehouse Hoses – 2 spots

T2 – Guided Ascent Skylight Area – 4 spots

T3 – Perfecting Ice Movement Skills – 2 spots

T6 – Learn to Lead Ice – 1 spot

Friday

D – Learn to Lead Ice, Mammut – Doug Shepard – 1 spot

E – Women’s Learn to Lead, Gore-tex – Angela Hawse – 6 spots

F – Backcountry Ice Climbing (Skylight Area), La Sportiva – Karsten Delap – 4 spots

G – Backcountry Ice Climbing (Ouray Area), Camp – Scott Bennet – 1 spot

Saturday

P – Light & Fast Alpinism, Camp – 1 spot

 

Support the Ouray Ice Park by becoming and member or donating today!

Ouray Ice Park Members get $10 off clinics and seminars. Click here to purchase or renew your Ouray Ice Park Membership. The OIP is a non-profit organization and nearly all of their funding comes from donations. The Ouray Ice Park is free to climb in, however, the it’s not free to maintain. Member benefits include discounts on clinics at the 2017 Ouray Ice Festival, A complimentary Gear Card for the 2017 Ouray Ice Festival, Discounts with local businesses, 50% off a 1 year subscription to Rock & Ice Magazine, and lots of extra good karma for supporting such a great climbing venue!

Ice Ambassador Ouray Ice Park Membership – Costs $150, includes all of the benefits listed above, plus an engraved stainless steel Ouray Ice Park pint and 2016-2017 Ouray Ice Park t-shirt, and a bonus perk of 10% off guided programs with San Juan Mountain Guides ($100 limit per year)

Make a Tax Deductible Donation to the Ouray Ice Park  – as a 501(c)3 nonprofit, your support is extremely important to helping the Ouray Ice Park maintain and operate this incredible resource.

There are many things to do during IceFest! Climbing, Parties, Soaking in Hot Springs, skiing!!

Ouray Ice Festival Nightly Events include multimedia presentations by leading climbers, discounted outdoor gear sold at silent auctions, dance parties, food and more!

 

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Thursday – Kick Off Party hosted by RAB & the American Alpine Club + Silent Auction

Friday – Ines Papert presents Riders on the Storm + Silent Auction

Saturday – A tribute to Kyle Dempster & Scott Adamson – Road to Karakol & Desert Ice + Presentation by Hayden Kennedy + Live Auction

Petzl Party – “Alpine Hippies”

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2017 Ouray Ice Festival Clinics

Early Season Ice Climbing

img_4416Excitement for winter in the San Juans comes early! Snow is just beginning to dust the peaks and the waterfalls are turning to ice. Our Early Season Ice Course is perfect for the climber that just can’t wait to get back on the ice. By the end of November, even before the Ouray Ice Park opens, you can get your early season fix and get in great shape with the best early season ice climbing in Colorado. Less snow on the ground means easier access to the ice climbs, more manageable avalanche conditions, and more unique climbing due to the varied, fragile, thin, and tricky ice that is often found on these backcountry routes.

The Early Season Ice Course is for all levels. Based on what’s in the best condition, and the climber’s ability, we’ll climb classic backcountry routes in Ouray and Silverton in either Skylight, Eureka, or South Mineral Creek areas. Options include local favorite The Ribbon (WI4) and classics Stairway to Heaven (WI4), or early season favorites such as, Direct North Face (WI4) Snowblind (WI4), Campground Couloir (WI3), Whorehouse Hoses (WI5), and more. Returning clients that are advanced climbers can burn off that turkey on the historic Bird Brain Boulevard (WI5, M5), seven pitches of mixed climbing on moss, choss, rock and steep ice, first put up in 1985 by some of the world’s best mountain climbers Charlie Fowler, Jeff Lowe, and Mark Wilford.

We offer this course at a very low client to guide ratio of 2:1 which will give you extensive mileage on the backcountry ice. The cost of the course includes guiding and instruction, group climbing equipment (ropes, screws) as well as personal equipment (helmets, harnesses, boots, crampons, and ice tools). For upcoming dates and to register, Click Here: Register Now.

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Early Season Ice Climbing

Get to Know Your Guide Steve Johnson

For Steve Johnson, it goes without saying, work is life and life is work. Steve has been guiding guests up ice, rock, on skis and in the alpine tundra since 1996. An AMGA certified guide in the rock and alpine disciplines, he is in pursuit of finishing his IFMGA soon. Steve is charismatic and fun. He also has great technical guiding skills and is always happy to pass on his knowledge with his guests. We’re stoked to have Steve on our team. He is our lead guide in the Front Range of Colorado in Rocky Mountain National Park, Eldorado Canyon, the Flatirons, and Lumpy Ridge. This week, we chatted with Steve about being a guide.

steve smile

What does climbing mean to you?

Climbing is my life. It’s a lot like surfing or golf in the way that people become obsessed with it and turn it into a lifestyle. Instead of being a hobby, it’s a lifestyle that that they live for. I became hooked on climbing when I started back in 1992. Still to this day, climbing for the last thirty years, I’ve gone through the “obsession” process and then you get better and eventually find yourself looking back at all of those years you’ve spent on the rock. Today, I realize how special and precious this activity is to me and the guests I guide.

Do you have a favorite discipline to guide?

Usually, skiing, but really, it varies. After a full season of rock climbing, I’m getting excited to get back to ice climbing and then I find myself dreaming of skiing powder again. After that, it goes full circle and I’m looking forward to getting back to guiding on rock again. Mountain life is pretty lucky.

Most memorable trip you’ve guided?

Opus Hut, on Ophir Pass in the San Juans is unbelievable. We did a four day trip last spring up there and the skiing was phenomenal. The people we get to guide for at San Juan Mountain Guides always make the trip the best though, honestly! This trip was one to remember. I mean, the mountains where that hut is settled in are absolutely breathtaking.

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How different are your personal days from your guiding days in the mountains?

I live outside of El Dorado Canyon in Boulder where there’s world class climbing, so I get out there with buddies quite a bit. Guiding with guests is just as fun as climbing with friends. The difference between the two is when I guide I am more personally responsible for my guest’s safety and there’s naturally a pressure in that. When I’m out with friends, there’s no need to play a lead role.

Best way to maintain fitness?

Yoga and rest. I like to keep my muscles loose and joints opened up. For the most part, what we do as guides is enough to keep the fitness high enough for our guests. But of course, If you train, you’re going to be better! Depending on how much work you put in, sometimes rest is your best medicine.

Tips for climbers to live by?

Climbing can be a slow sport when you’re belaying; there’s a lot of downtime. It’s a lot of problem solving and you’re not continuously moving. It’s the problem solving that I love the most. I like to think of days of adventure like a puzzle; the whole day of climbing is a puzzle. Meanwhile, little routes and problems can be thought of like reading a poem and from there, smaller things are verses or quotes.

Do you have a favorite climber or mountaineer that you look up to?

Is it going to get me in trouble if I say Leonard Coyne? He’s known for saying some pretty offensive things but he’s also good at speaking his mind which I like. Ultimately, he’s a total badass.

Favorite Piece of Gear?

SJMG’s gave me a pair of Outdoor Research pants that I have climbed in every single day this summer. I also love the La Sportiva T.C Pros (Tommy Caldwell’s rock climbing shoe). It performs great, you don’t have to wear them super tightly and the high top protects your ankles. I wear this shoe all day and they’re actually not bad to walk in! I have over eight pairs of climbing shoes but if it were up to me, I’d just climb in the T.C. Pros.

 

 

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Get to Know Your Guide Steve Johnson

Alpamayo Expedition Safe

The Alpamayo Expedition had a terrific trip! They had great weather and good times. Their summit bid was successful and everyone is doing fine. Our sincere apologies for not posting the 28 & 29, we were out of service in the Teton NP attending a memorial for Gary Falk.

The team is arriving to Huaraz today (July 31). They travel to Lima tomorrow, and finally home the next day! Thank you for your patience & understanding. SJMG

 

 

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Alpamayo Expedition Safe

Alpamayo Expedition July 27

The Alpamayo Team led by Andrés Marín is doing well. Today they are resting at High Camp (18,000 ft/5,485 m.) for tonight’s summit attempt. Wish them a safe journey up & down Alapamayo (19,512 ft./5,947 m.). They are in our thoughts!

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Alpamayo Expedition July 27

Alpamayo Expedition July 26

Team Alpamayo is doing fantastic. They had a good, long day today moving from Moraine Camp (16,076 ft/ 4,900 m) to High Camp (ABC) at 18,164 feet/ 5,536 meters. The weather is great. Stay tuned for more on their progress.

Advanced Base Camp

Advanced Base Camp

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Alpamayo Expedition July 26

Alpamayo Expedition July 25

The Alpamayo Team is doing great. Today they advanced to Moraine Camp (16,076 ft or 4,900 m.).

 

 

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Alpamayo Expedition July 25

Alpamayo Expedition July 24

The Alpamayo Expedition is going great. Yesterday (July 23) the team did a carry from BC to Moraine Camp (16,076 ft or 4,900 m.) Today they took a rest day at Base Camp (14,107 ft. or 4,300 m.). Weather is beautiful and everyone is feeling good.

alpamayo.2.3

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Alpamayo Expedition July 24

Alpamayo Expedition July 22

Received IN Reach Message from Andrés. The Team is doing great! Today they hiked to Base Camp (14,107 ft. or 4,300 m.) in the Arhuaycocha Gully, which overlooks the beautiful Lago Arhuaycocha. The weather is splitter and they are having a super fun time. Stay tuned for updates on their progress.

Location of Team

Lago Arhuaycocha

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Alpamayo Expedition July 22

Alpamayo Expedition Hits the Trail

Our Alpamayo Expedition led by Andrés Marín, Brad Johnson & Alex Torres hit the trail from Cashapampa (11,237 ft.) this morning. They are hiking in on the Santa Cruz Trail and plan to camp at the Llama Corrals tonight. Stay tuned for trip updates as we receive word. We wish them a great journey in the Cordillera Blanca of the Peruvian Andes to climb Alpamayo (19,511 ft./5,947 m.).

ALPADOS

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Alpamayo Expedition Hits the Trail

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