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Wilson Peak

RMNP Private Guiding
November 22, 2016
Alpine Mountaineering
Alpine Mountaineering I
July 26, 2017

Wilson Peak, Sentinel of the San Miguels

Located in Lizard Head Wilderness of the San Juan and Uncompahgre National Forests,  Wilson Peak  (14, 017 ft.) attracts climbers at first sight of its raw beauty.  The “Wilson Group” referred to by locals, lies 13 miles southwest of  Telluride. This  rugged massif of the San Miguel Range in the western San Juan Mountains have some of the more challenging climbs in Colorado. Wilson Peak is a mere 1.5 miles from it’s parent peak, Mt. Wilson (14,246 ft.) and often times the two are confused. A third 14er, El Diente (14, 159 ft.) creates  one of the classic Colorado Traverses with Mt. Wilson. Not to overlook the jagged 13,913 ft. Gladstone Peak that lies among the 14ers, this bundle of awesome volcanic  peaks offers extraordinary adventures in spectacular mountainous settings.

Wilson Peak is easier than Mt. Wilson and El Diente. Ascension of Wilson Peak is often used as a tune up for the other two; although climbing Wilson Peak in it’s own right is an incredible accomplishment. There are various routes to attain the summit of  Wilson Peak,  all require at least class 3 scrambling and climbing. While the more difficult routes are recommended to advanced mountaineers.

SJMG is the premier guide service offering guided trips into the Wilson Range including Mount Wilson, El Diente, and Wilson Peak.  These iconic peaks adorn the southern skyline of the Telluride area and are home to some of the best rockies mountaineering in the state.

Approaching Wilson Peak

A common question in regards to this area is which approach is best suited for climbing Wilson Peak. Those climbers who would either like to see Navajo Lake, or are combining a climb of Wilson Peak with the other two 14’ers we recommend the Navajo Basin approach. There is a good high camp in Navajo Basin for access to the three peaks.  For our guests who are only doing Wilson Peak, we utilize the Rock of Ages approach, through the Rock of Ages Col. This is a spectacular hike with grand views the entire way.

2018 Dates

Arranged on a Private Basis

May through September

 

Costs

4:1 – $199 pp
3:1 – $249 pp
2:1 – $309 pp
1:1 – $469

rexerNo Hidden Fees

Includes:
  • Guiding and instruction with an AMGA Certified/Trained Guide
  • All climbing gear (harness, helmet, ropes, etc.)
  • Round-trip transportation to and from climbing area and our office


Wilson Peak

Wilson Peak Itinerary & Routes

Wilson Peak can be combined with the Mt. Wilson/El Diente Traverse, this would require at least 2 – 3 days.

Wilson Peak can be climbed in one day. 

Early start is key for a successful climb. This allows for more enjoyment and a comfortable pace. In the later summer it is pertinent to begin perhaps even earlier to avoid afternoon thunderstorms. Round trip Wilson Peak via the southwest ridge takes an average of  about 8 hours.

It is possible to originate this trip from Telluride, Ouray or Durango. From Durango it is about a 3 hour drive to the trailhead. From Ouray it is about a 1.5 hour drive to the trailhead. From Telluride, it is about a 45 minute drive to the trailhead.

The southwest ridge is the easiest route up Wilson Peak and it can be accessed from Silver Pick Basin or Navajo Lake Basin. If  Wilson Peak is the only objective, the Silver Pick access is preferred because it is much shorter. Navajo Lakes provides good access to all three peaks.
Follow the trail to the  Rock of Ages saddle at about 13,000 feet. This is a well used rocky trail.  From the Rock of Ages Saddle the trail becomes a little trickier to read, traversing through boulder fields and rocky terrain. The route takes you to another small saddle between Wilson Peak and Gladstone. It continues NE around the rocky terrain to reach the southwest ridge. There is a false summit at about 13,900 feet. True summit is not far off, however, the rest of the route is class 3 scramble and climb. To gain the summit, climbers have to carefully down climb about 50 feet.  Then, cross some loose rocks to reach the final up climb of  about 120 feet of some class 3 engaging climbing.

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Wilson Peak Equipment List

Duffel BagDescriptionGuide's Pick
1 - 2 Large, durable bags for oragnizing and transporting your gear during airline travel etc.
BackpackDescriptionGuide's Pick
Osprey’s Variant 52 is the ultimate pack for expedition and high alpine climbers. Designed to carry specialized mountain gear such as skis, wands, ice protection, and ice tools, this pack can be easily stripped down to minimize weight for a summit push.
ThermosDescriptionGuide's Pick
Coffee is the lifeblood of champions. We highly encourage the consumption of coffee on our programs. The darker the better.
Water BottlesDescriptionGuide's Pick
We recommend wide mouth Nalgene (or similar) water bottles for the majority of our programs. Two 1 liter bottles is the standard for days in the mountains.
Bottle InsulatorsDescriptionGuide's Pick
Insulating water bottle parkas are recommended in the winter months, for ice climbing or cold weather alpine trips.
Stuff SacksDescriptionGuide's Pick
Stuff sacks are a great way to organize your gear in your pack and help to keep things tidy in a variety of ways. A great addition to any of our programs.
Personal FoodDescriptionGuide's Pick
Lunch begins when breakfast ends and ends when dinner begins. Bring what you like to eat and consider the length, relative difficulty, weight, and other factors when deciding what to bring in the mountains with you. A variety is always best. Don't be afraid of Mr. T.
SunglassesDescriptionGuide's Pick
A good pair of wrap around sunglasses are an essential item for all of our trips. When the sun shines brightly on fresh snow in the mountains your eyes will thank you for a quality pair of shades. Looking good is important too.
SunscreenDescriptionGuide's Pick
Essential for all of our programs. SPF 30 would be our minimum recommendation. Typically a 4 oz. bottle will suffice but consider trip length when deciding how much to pack.
Lip BalmDescriptionGuide's Pick
Lip balm is important to bring on all trips. SPF 15 or higher is recommended.
HeadlampDescriptionGuide's Pick
A headlamp is recommended for all of our programs and is an essential piece of equipment you will use in a variety of circumstances. Most LED type headlamps will do but we recommend the Black Diamond Storm for its versatility.
First Aid KitDescriptionGuide's Pick
An excellent investment for all of our programs. Our guides always carry a comprehensive medical kit but it's nice to have your own as well.
Small KnifeDescriptionGuide's Pick
A small knife is an indispensable tool to carry with you in the mountains. We like the Spatha knife for its size, weight, versatility, and ability to clip onto a harness.
Digital CameraDescriptionGuide's Pick
While phones these days offer excellent quality, nothing beats the reliability of a dedicated digital camera. You'll be glad you brought it and your guide will make sure to help capture the moment of you being awesome.
Hand WarmersDescriptionGuide's Pick
An optional item, but nice to have on cold weather climbs and courses. Consider having a few stowed away in your pack and you can break them out if you feel you need them.
SocksDescriptionGuide's Pick
Synthetic socks area must for all outdoor activities. Select a pair that fits well, is warm, and is comfortable. Bring 2-3 pairs depending on the type of trip.
Base Layer TopDescriptionGuide's Pick
Choosing the right base layer really makes a difference in comfort, moisture-wicking, and the balance between cool and warm at the right time and in the right places. The Outdoor Research Echo Hoody also offers good sun protection.
Base Layer BottomDescriptionGuide's Pick
Similar to the base layer top. These are wear all the time in all conditions base layer pants. A must have for alpine and ice climbing trips and objectives.
Mid Weight TopDescriptionGuide's Pick
One of the best mid-weight layers we've ever worn. The Outdoor Research Deviator Hoody combines all the best features of a mid-layer into one supremely well-fitting piece of technical hybrid inner/outwear. The layer does so many things so well it's one of the few pieces we wear throughout the year.
Soft Shell JacketDescriptionGuide's Pick
Our most ruggedly built Ferrosi piece is an alpine focused style that can really take a beating. Using Cordura® fabric in the main body, this hooded jacket provides additional abrasion-resistance while shrugging off wind and light rain. The Halo Hood™ seals out bad weather without limiting peripheral vision.
Soft Shell PantsDescriptionGuide's Pick
The Cirque Pants are a durable, heavy-weight technical soft shell pant built for high-energy climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing. The highly breathable, wind and weather-resistant double-weave stretch fabric excels in high-mountain conditions. The zippered thigh pocket ensures energy bars and maps remain easily accessible.
Insulated ParkaDescriptionGuide's Pick
Pack it for those days where you need just a touch of down insulation, or on those cold days on the chairlift when an extra layer might be crucial. Our new hooded version of the Filament has the same design as the popular hood-less version and a DWR-treated shell of ultralight 10D Pertex® Quantum GL keeps moisture away from premium 800-fill down inside.
Insulated VestDescriptionGuide's Pick
Same spirit, same guts, and same award-winning hybrid-mapped design of the Cathode Hooded Jacket, minus the sleeves and hood. An insulated vest is an optional item on our programs but we do think vests offer excellent flexible layering options in a variety of circumstances, weather conditions, and trip types.
Shell JacketDescriptionGuide's Pick
Our Outside Magazine and Men’s Journal “Gear of the Year” award-winning storm shell is engineered for fast-and-light alpine climbs and all-day backcountry tours. You need at minimum either a soft shell jacket or hard shell jacket for local Ouray based winter courses and programs.
Built for flash-storm protection, the 100% waterproof, super-breathable Helium II weighs an incredibly light 6.4 ounces. An ultra-compressible piece you’ll never leave behind, it’s so light and packs down so small you’ll forget it’s clipped to your harness until you throw it on to ward off a sudden mid-route downpour.
Shell PantsDescriptionGuide's Pick
Waterproof, breathable and lightweight, the GORE-TEX® Foray Pants provide dependable rain protection and shrug off the wear-and-tear of the trail and cityscape alike.
Warm HatDescriptionGuide's Pick
The Booster’s reversible design lets you choose. The soft yarn blend will provide a cozy sanctuary throughout winter’s chill.
Baseball CapDescriptionGuide's Pick
A required item on the majority of our programs, a baseball cap helps to keep harmful sun off your face. The Radar Pocket cap is packable, durable, and looks great!
Lightweight GlovesDescriptionGuide's Pick
Updated for touchscreen compatibility, the StormTracker Sensor Gloves are equally at home alpine climbing, ski touring or ice climbing. Low-profile GORE® WINDSTOPPER®. Soft Shell fabric deflects biting gusts, and a tricot lining retains valuable heat.
Midweight GlovesDescriptionGuide's Pick
Built to handle cold mornings on the up-track and powder turns all the way back down, these versatile gloves feature a new stretch nylon shell outer, a goat leather palm with textured fingertips, and a warm, quick-drying wool blend lining.
Balaclava or BuffDescriptionGuide's Pick
Simple, effective and infinitely adaptable, Original BUFF® headwear is the product that started the multifunctional headwear revolution. At its core is a moisture-managing microfiber fabric that is wind resistant and able to control odor. We recommend the BUFF for all of our programs as a multi-purpose insulation piece and trendy headgear!
Belay DeviceDescriptionGuide's Pick
A belay device is a required item on any of our technical climbing or mountaineering courses. While not necessary to have the Guide ATC specifically, we think owning one of these offers additional versatility as you progress and gain additional knowledge about the various levels of functionality provided by a device of this type.
HarnessDescriptionGuide's Pick
The BD Aspect Harness is a great all around performer for all types of climbing - ice, rock, alpine etc. The adjustable leg loops and integrated ice clipper loops make this a solid investment as your do-all harness.
Locking CarabinersDescriptionGuide's Pick
We recommend at minimum 2 - 3 personal locking carabiners on our climbing courses and any technical private guided program. We prefer classic screw gate carabiners over other types of locking mechanisms.
Climbing HelmetDescriptionGuide's Pick
A versatile, hybrid-shell helmet for lightweight protection in any discipline, the Vector features excellent ventilation and a ratcheting adjuster.
Non Locking CarabinersDescriptionGuide's Pick
A selection of non-locking carabiners is recommended on all of our technical climbing programs. Consider at least 4 - 6 and we prefer wire gate carabiners over more traditional gate carabiners. Many options exist so just consider a variety when putting your carabiner rack together!
Climbing BootsDescriptionGuide's Pick
Light and fast this boot makes you feel like a wood nymph bounding through the mountains. All synthetic and designed for spider like alpine climbing performance; it is waterproof and ready for a semi-automatic crampon. The Vibram® Mulaz outsole, has an edging platform and sticky Supertrek Rubber. The 3D Flex™ ankle provides supreme ankle maneuverability for technical routes.
Adjustable Trekking PolesDescriptionGuide's Pick
This is an optional item on our programs. However, a good pair of trekking poles is a worthy piece of gear to have with you for long approaches or treks through the mountains. There are many added benefits to trekking poles. The new BD Distance series poles are light, collapsible, and adjustable.
CordelletesDescriptionGuide's Pick
Accessory cord or cordelette material is essential equipment that offer great versatility in use and application. Consider getting a few for your climbing rack.
SlingsDescriptionGuide's Pick
Climbing slings or runners are an excellent compliment to your climbing gear. Versatile in their use and applicability, consider having a few of each length on your rack.
Sleeping PadDescriptionGuide's Pick
The Therm-a-Rest NeoAir All Season mattress is lightweight, durable, extremely warm, and the ultimate solution to year-round backcountry comfort. Stable construction and 2.5-inch thickness offer greater comfort for a full night of sleep, so you won't feel the uneven, rough terrain beneath you.
Sleeping BagDescriptionGuide's Pick
The Western Mountaineering MegaLite 30 Degree Sleeping Bag large cut sleeping bag for bigger folks or those seeking plenty of space. Have a fear of being closed in or perhaps a wide set of shoulders? This 850+ down fill sleeping bag has a 64" shoulder girth and 39" foot girth. Lay back and enjoy being wrapped in soft, fluffy down on nights down to 30°F.
Mountain CramponsDescriptionGuide's Pick
A classic 10-point crampon for mountaineering and glacier travel, the Contact features a durable stainless steel construction and a stable, lightweight design. Available in a Strap or Clip version.

Training & Follow Up Climbs

As always, being in excellent physical shape is an important component of our our programs. A good mixture of cardiovascular fitness, muscular fitness, and especially core strength will help you to maximize the potential rewards that are possible on a great climbing trip.

Before Your Trip

The Wilson Peak 14’er trip is a strenuous trip conducted at altitudes above 10,000 feet.  Therefore, previous experience hiking in the mountains and/or multi-day backpacking experience will be very helpful to you on this program.  Though the actual climbing level required for this trip is not difficult, the best training regimen would include a mixture of cardiovascular fitness training (running, biking, hiking etc.), and muscular/core fitness exercises.  The addition of some Yoga/stretching exercises will help to insure that you maintain good muscular flexibility as well.

For the Wilson Peak 14’er you should be ready for:

  • Hiking approximately 8 miles round trip
  • Climbing with a small daypack at altitudes up to 14,000′
  • Moderate climbing difficulty depending on route choice
  • Wilderness travel

 

Follow Up Climbs

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Ouray, Colorado: Getting Here

Ouray is located in the SW corner of Colorado, approximately 30 minutes south of Montrose. Known as “The Switzerland of America”, the town of Ouray is a vibrant outdoor oriented community. All local businesses are very friendly to the ice climbers who flock each winter to climb in the Ouray Ice Park and surrounding areas.

plane-icon The best option for flying to the area is to fly into Montrose, CO. Many airline options exist, and most connections originate from Denver, CO, however, many airlines now offer direct flights into Montrose – especially during the summer and winter months.

It is also possible to fly into Grand Junction, Durango, Telluride, or Denver CO. It may be necessary to rent a car and drive to Ouray if you’d like to fly into one of these airports.

suv-icon Below are some approximate driving times if you’d like to drive to Ouray. If you plan on renting a car, please consider the winter weather when selecting your vehicle and at a minimum choose something that offers either front wheel or all-wheel drive.

  • Montrose, CO: 45 minutes
  • Durango, CO: 2 hours
  • Denver, CO: 5.5 hours

hotel-icon-2 Ouray has a number of great hotels, suites, and vacation rentals for you to stay in while you’re in the area. Give our office a call at 800-642-5389 if you have any questions about what would suit you best for this trip!


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Program Policies

Registration & Cancellation

Advance Registration is required for this program.  You have the option to either call our office and register via phone or utilize our secure Online Reservation System.  All participants must read and sign an Assumption of Risks/Liability Waiver and agree to our Reservations and Cancellations Policies.

Program Inclusions

  • Guiding and Instruction with an AMGA Certified/Trained Guide
  • All climbing gear (harness, helmet, ropes, etc.)
  • Round-trip transportation to and from the climbing area and our office

 

Program Exclusions

  • Transportation to Ouray, CO
  • Hotel costs before, during, or after the program
  • Guide gratuity
  • Lunch food or snacks
  • Personal hiking/climbing clothing
  • Trip Cancellation Insurance (recommended)
  • Costs associated with weather delays or other variables beyond the control of San Juan Mountain Guides

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Book This Trip!

We Offer Online Registration

  1. Click on Book This Trip
  2. Select your Program dates
  3. Enter your Info and Payment

 

Or, call 800.642.5389 to register

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