Alaska Mountaineering Seminar Itinerary

Itinerary Note

As with all climbs in Alaska, it’s best to approach this expedition with a flexible attitude and be prepared to move camp, climb, and generally get things done when the opportunity presents itself. Weather, route conditions, team dynamics, and a host of other factors can influence how our team decides to adjust the itinerary to give us the best chance for success and safety while on the mountain.

Day 1

Arrive in Anchorage and travel to Talkeetna.  There will be an opportunity to spend a little time in Anchorage picking up any last minute supplies or gear needs from local outfitters.  Stay in a hotel.

Day 2

The group will check in with the NPS in the morning after a hearty breakfast at The Roadhouse.  We will then finalize our gear preparations and fly into Ruth Gorge and establish base camp later that afternoon.

Day 3

Skills review and training near our basecamp.  Specific emphasis will be placed on glacier travel and crevasse rescue scenarios, both of which are foundational expedition mountaineering skills.

Day 4

Full day glacier tour and conditions reconnaissance on the peaks near our camp in the Ruth Gorge.  This will be an opportunity to explore the range a little bit and assess potential climbing objectives for the coming days.

Day 5

Climb Mt. Barille (7560′) via the Japanese Couloir.  A great introduction to mixed alpine climbing, the Japanese Couloir offers some steep snow and a little rock scrambling to attain the summit of this centrally located peak.  An early start gets us back to camp before noon and in about 9 – 12 hours round trip.

Day 6

Weather/contingency day or rest day.  If the weather is good we may choose to move camp and or prepare for our next climbing objective, which may be the West Face of Mt. Dickey – among other options.

Day 7

Today the team will move camp to 747 pass on Mt. Dickey.  Moving and establishing successive camps is an another important acquired skill for climbers in Alaska.

Day 8

Summit Mt. Dickey (9,545′) via the West Face.  Another excellent climb with intricate glacier travel takes us to the summit of this iconic Ruth Gorge peak.  Descend back to camp.

Day 9

Fly out to Talkeetna mid-morning and return to Anchorage in the afternoon. A celebratory lunch or dinner in Anchorage rounds out the trip.  Many participants schedule a late flight home on this day as most airlines offer flights out of Anchorage at this time.  Alternatively, you may stay the night in Anchorage and fly home the following day.

Training & Follow Up Climbs

As always, being in excellent physical shape is an important component of our our programs. A good mixture of cardiovascular fitness, muscular fitness, and especially core strength will help you to maximize the potential rewards that are possible on a great climbing trip.

Before Your Trip

Climbers who would like to schedule a Ham n’ Eggs climb with us must have also previously climbed with SJMG in the San Juans on ice climbs in the area.  In certain circumstances we can accept climber’s with documented previous experience on other similar technical routes and climbs.  The best preparation and training assumes not only a strong background in ice climbing skills (ability to comfortably follow WI 4/4+) but also required is excellent cardiovascular fitness and previous experience on long multi-pitch rock and ice routes.  As mentioned earlier, the San Juans represent one of the premier destinations in the country to gain this type of experiential background and skill level.

For the Alaska Mountaineering Seminar you should be ready for:

• Backcountry travel and life on an Alaskan glacier
• Cold temperatures, fickle weather, delays, and other factors beyond control
• Glacier travel

Follow Up Climbs

• Denali via The West Rib Expedition
• Cody, WY Ice Climbing
• Backcountry Ice Seminar
• Alpamayo Expedition

Talkeetna, Alaska: Getting There

Talkeetna, Alaska is the gateway to Denali National Park and the myriad of mountaineering objectives found within.  The small historic town swells during the climbing season (April – July) as mountaineers from all backgrounds attempt climbs in the Alaska Range.  The town boasts a few good restaurants, hotels, and plenty of small planes!

The best option for flying to the area is to fly into Anchorage, Alaska.  We will pick you up at the airport in a rental car, or you may arrange your own transportation to Talkeetna. We will pick you up at the airport or at your hotel and will provide transportation for the remainder of the trip.

Driving to Alaska is an experience like no other.  If you’re into the “full experience” consider driving up to Alaska on the AlCan.  It might just turn out to be the highlight of your trip! We will pick you up at the airport or at your hotel and will provide transportation for the remainder of the trip.

• Seattle, WA to Anchorage, AK: 34 hours
• Ouray, CO to Anchorage, AK: 48 hours

If flying into Anchorage early you’ll want to arrange lodging for at least 1 night in Anchorage.  Beyond that we’ll be staying in Talkeetna for 1 night.  We arrange for lodging in Talkeetna, typically at the Swiss Alaska.

• The Courtyard Marriot @ Airport
• The Swiss Alaska – Talkeetna

Program Policies

Registration & Cancellation

Advance Registration is required for this program.  You have the option to either call our office and register via phone or utilize our secure Online Reservation System.  All participants must read and sign an Assumption of Risks/Liability Waiver and agree to our Reservations and Cancellations Policies.

Inclusions

• Guiding and trip leadership with an AMGA Certified Guides
• Round trip transportation from Anchorage to Talkeetna
• 1 night of lodging in Talkeetna
• All mountain food (breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the backcountry)
• Group camping and cooking equipment (tents, stoves, etc.)
• Group climbing and technical equipment (ropes, etc.)

Exclusions

• Transportation to Durango, CO
• Hotel costs before, during, or after the program
• Guide gratuity
• Lunch food or snacks
• Personal hiking/climbing clothing
• Trip Cancellation Insurance (recommended)
• Costs associated with weather delays or other variables beyond the control of San Juan Mountain Guides