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Cody WY Ice Climbing

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Ice Climber Self Rescue Course
October 21, 2016
South Fork Valley Backcountry Ice Seminar
October 22, 2016

Cody, WY & South Fork Valley Ice Climbing

San Juan Mountain Guides is proud to announce that we are now able to offer guided ice climbing in the South Fork Valley near Cody, Wyoming in the Shoshone National Forest! This mecca of ice climbing is host to some of the finest multi-pitch ice climbing in North America. If you’ve climbed with us previously in Ouray, Telluride and/or Silverton, Colorado then ice climbing in the South Fork represents an excellent “next step” destination in your ice climbing progression.

A lifetime’s worth of ice climbing awaits those who’d like to integrate a bit more adventure into their ice climbing trip. The South Fork offers a huge selection of multi-pitch ice routes with difficulty levels varying between WI 3 and WI 5+.  Most of the classic routes feature lengths of 100 meters to 300 meters (or longer).  Though the South Fork itself represents a true destination for multi-pitch ice climbing, this is also the perfect training ground for ice climbers and great preparation for ice climbs in Canada, or alpine endeavors in the Alaska Range.

The best time frame for ice climbs in the Cody, Wyoming / South Fork Valley is early December through early April, with the best and most predictably good ice conditions coming in January through March.

Cody Backcountry Seminar

The majority of our Cody ice climbing programs are scheduled on a custom/private basis. New for 2019, however, we are offering a few fixed date 3 and 4 day Cody, WY Backcountry Ice Seminars. These new programs offer you the opportunity to climb in Cody in the month of February when SJMG will be sustaining a larger presence in the area.

2018 – 2019 Dates

Available Upon Request

December through March

 

Costs

1:1 – $499 
2:1 – $349

*Additional SJMG guide travel fees may apply

Includes:
  • Guiding and instruction with an AMGA Certified/Trained Guide
  • All ice climbing gear (harness, helmet, ice tools, crampons, boots etc.)


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South Fork Ice Routes

Trips and programs in Cody are offered on a private/custom basis only and require a minimum booking of 3 days.  Many options for itineraries in Cody and the South Fork are possible.  Call or email our office for suggestions.

rexerSmoked Turkey (WI 3)

rexerSmooth Emerald Milkshake (WI 4)

rexerThe Main Vein (WI 4)

rexerCabin Fever (WI 4)

rexerHigh on Boulder (WI 4)

rexerBozo’s Revenge (WI 3+)

rexerMean Green (WI 5)

rexerSendero Illuminoso (WI 4)

An many, many more!

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Ice Climbing Equipment List

Duffel BagDescriptionGuide's Pick
1 - 2 Large, durable bags for oragnizing and transporting your gear during airline travel etc.
BackpackDescriptionGuide's Pick
The Osprey Mutant 38 represents an excellent all around performer for Ice Climbing trips in the Ouray Ice Park and surrounding San Juan backcountry.
ThermosDescriptionGuide's Pick
Coffee is the lifeblood of champions. We highly encourage the consumption of coffee on our programs. The darker the better.
Water BottlesDescriptionGuide's Pick
We recommend wide mouth Nalgene (or similar) water bottles for the majority of our programs. Two 1 liter bottles is the standard for days in the mountains.
Bottle InsulatorsDescriptionGuide's Pick
Insulating water bottle parkas are recommended in the winter months, for ice climbing or cold weather alpine trips.
Personal FoodDescriptionGuide's Pick
Lunch begins when breakfast ends and ends when dinner begins. Bring what you like to eat and consider the length, relative difficulty, weight, and other factors when deciding what to bring in the mountains with you. A variety is always best. Don't be afraid of Mr. T.
SunglassesDescriptionGuide's Pick
A good pair of wrap around sunglasses are an essential item for all of our trips. When the sun shines brightly on fresh snow in the mountains your eyes will thank you for a quality pair of shades. Looking good is important too.
SunscreenDescriptionGuide's Pick
Essential for all of our programs. SPF 30 would be our minimum recommendation. Typically a 4 oz. bottle will suffice but consider trip length when deciding how much to pack.
Lip BalmDescriptionGuide's Pick
Lip balm is important to bring on all trips. SPF 15 or higher is recommended.
HeadlampDescriptionGuide's Pick
A headlamp is recommended for all of our programs and is an essential piece of equipment you will use in a variety of circumstances. Most LED type headlamps will do but we recommend the Black Diamond Storm for its versatility.
First Aid KitDescriptionGuide's Pick
An excellent investment for all of our programs. Our guides always carry a comprehensive medical kit but it's nice to have your own as well.
Small KnifeDescriptionGuide's Pick
A small knife is an indispensable tool to carry with you in the mountains. We like the Spatha knife for its size, weight, versatility, and ability to clip onto a harness.
Digital CameraDescriptionGuide's Pick
While phones these days offer excellent quality, nothing beats the reliability of a dedicated digital camera. You'll be glad you brought it and your guide will make sure to help capture the moment of you being awesome.
Hand WarmersDescriptionGuide's Pick
An optional item, but nice to have on cold weather climbs and courses. Consider having a few stowed away in your pack and you can break them out if you feel you need them.
SocksDescriptionGuide's Pick
Synthetic socks area must for all outdoor activities. Select a pair that fits well, is warm, and is comfortable. Bring 2-3 pairs depending on the type of trip.
Base Layer TopDescriptionGuide's Pick
Choosing the right base layer really makes a difference in comfort, moisture-wicking, and the balance between cool and warm at the right time and in the right places. The Outdoor Research Echo Hoody also offers good sun protection.
Base Layer BottomDescriptionGuide's Pick
Similar to the base layer top. These are wear all the time in all conditions base layer pants. A must have for alpine and ice climbing trips and objectives.
Mid Weight TopDescriptionGuide's Pick
One of the best mid-weight layers we've ever worn. The Outdoor Research Deviator Hoody combines all the best features of a mid-layer into one supremely well-fitting piece of technical hybrid inner/outwear. The layer does so many things so well it's one of the few pieces we wear throughout the year.
Soft Shell JacketDescriptionGuide's Pick
Designed specifically with Ice and Alpine Climbers in mind, the Outdoor Research Iceline Jacket will foot the bill for your workhorse soft-shell jacket of choice in the mountains. Feature rich and detail oriented, our guides love to work and climb in this jacket.
Soft Shell PantsDescriptionGuide's Pick
The well-designed Iceline pant by Outdoor Research is the best ice climbing pant we've ever worn. All the features you've been looking for in a workhorse alpine pant in one package. Durable, quality craftsmanship and an Infinite Guarantee makes this a worthy purchase.
Insulated ParkaDescriptionGuide's Pick
Ice climbers know a thing or two about staying warm in all those long, stationary stretches when their partner is leading a pitch. We made the Perch Belay Parka for them (and for anyone who wants water-resistant warmth while, say, grilling burgers in a ski resort parking lot in February).
Insulated VestDescriptionGuide's Pick
Same spirit, same guts, and same award-winning hybrid-mapped design of the Cathode Hooded Jacket, minus the sleeves and hood. An insulated vest is an optional item on our programs but we do think vests offer excellent flexible layering options in a variety of circumstances, weather conditions, and trip types.
Shell JacketDescriptionGuide's Pick
Our Outside Magazine and Men’s Journal “Gear of the Year” award-winning storm shell is engineered for fast-and-light alpine climbs and all-day backcountry tours. You need at minimum either a soft shell jacket or hard shell jacket for local Ouray based winter courses and programs.
Shell PantsDescriptionGuide's Pick
Waterproof, breathable and lightweight, the GORE-TEX® Foray Pants provide dependable rain protection and shrug off the wear-and-tear of the trail and cityscape alike.
Warm HatDescriptionGuide's Pick
The Booster’s reversible design lets you choose. The soft yarn blend will provide a cozy sanctuary throughout winter’s chill.
Baseball CapDescriptionGuide's Pick
A required item on the majority of our programs, a baseball cap helps to keep harmful sun off your face. The Radar Pocket cap is packable, durable, and looks great!
Lightweight GlovesDescriptionGuide's Pick
Updated for touchscreen compatibility, the StormTracker Sensor Gloves are equally at home alpine climbing, ski touring or ice climbing. Low-profile GORE® WINDSTOPPER®. Soft Shell fabric deflects biting gusts, and a tricot lining retains valuable heat.
Midweight GlovesDescriptionGuide's Pick
Built to handle cold mornings on the up-track and powder turns all the way back down, these versatile gloves feature a new stretch nylon shell outer, a goat leather palm with textured fingertips, and a warm, quick-drying wool blend lining.
Heavy GlovesDescriptionGuide's Pick
Our pinnacle technical alpine climbing glove was inspired by the design of medieval gauntlets and built for elite climbers. These breathable three-in-one gloves—built with a GORE® WINDSTOPPER® soft shell outer and warm, removable, quick-drying wool blend liners—are perfect for multi-day endeavors.
Balaclava or BuffDescriptionGuide's Pick
Simple, effective and infinitely adaptable, Original BUFF® headwear is the product that started the multifunctional headwear revolution. At its core is a moisture-managing microfiber fabric that is wind resistant and able to control odor. We recommend the BUFF for all of our programs as a multi-purpose insulation piece and trendy headgear!
Ice AxesDescriptionGuide's Pick
Technical axes for ice climbing
Belay DeviceDescriptionGuide's Pick
A belay device is a required item on any of our technical climbing or mountaineering courses. While not necessary to have the Guide ATC specifically, we think owning one of these offers additional versatility as you progress and gain additional knowledge about the various levels of functionality provided by a device of this type.
HarnessDescriptionGuide's Pick
The BD Aspect Harness is a great all around performer for all types of climbing - ice, rock, alpine etc. The adjustable leg loops and integrated ice clipper loops make this a solid investment as your do-all harness.
Locking CarabinersDescriptionGuide's Pick
We recommend at minimum 2 - 3 personal locking carabiners on our climbing courses and any technical private guided program. We prefer classic screw gate carabiners over other types of locking mechanisms.
Climbing HelmetDescriptionGuide's Pick
A versatile, hybrid-shell helmet for lightweight protection in any discipline, the Vector features excellent ventilation and a ratcheting adjuster.
Non Locking CarabinersDescriptionGuide's Pick
A selection of non-locking carabiners is recommended on all of our technical climbing programs. Consider at least 4 - 6 and we prefer wire gate carabiners over more traditional gate carabiners. Many options exist so just consider a variety when putting your carabiner rack together!
Climbing BootsDescriptionGuide's Pick
We provide ice climbing boots at no additional charge for our Ouray based ice climbing programs. However, if you would like to invest in an ice climbing boot then look no further than the La Sportiva Nepal Cube. Another versatile option would be the La Sportiva Batura 2.0. Both are excellent choices for ice climbing and mountaineering.
CramponsDescriptionGuide's Pick
We provide either the Cyborg or Stinger Crampons on all of our Ouray-based ice climbing programs. However, if you are in the market for a dedicated ice climbing crampon then consider either the Cyborg or Stinger as great all around performers.
Adjustable Trekking PolesDescriptionGuide's Pick
This is an optional item on our programs. However, a good pair of trekking poles is a worthy piece of gear to have with you for long approaches or treks through the mountains. There are many added benefits to trekking poles. The new BD Distance series poles are light, collapsible, and adjustable.
CordelletesDescriptionGuide's Pick
Accessory cord or cordelette material is essential equipment that offer great versatility in use and application. Consider getting a few for your climbing rack.
SlingsDescriptionGuide's Pick
Climbing slings or runners are an excellent compliment to your climbing gear. Versatile in their use and applicability, consider having a few of each length on your rack.

Training & Follow Up Climbs

As always, being in excellent physical shape is an important component of our our programs. A good mixture of cardiovascular fitness, muscular fitness, and especially core strength will help you to maximize the potential rewards that are possible on a great climbing trip.

Specific to Ice Climbing – check out our Pre-Season Training Tips for helpful info on how you can prepare for the forearm pump!

Before Your Trip

Completing our Basic, Intermediate Ice Climbing Course with us in Ouray is a great start, but specifically for Cody, we like participants to have climbed a fair number of backcountry ice routes with us in the San Juans.  Routes such as Stairway to Heaven, Whorhouse Ice Hose, The Ribbon and the Ames Ice Hose represent excellent training and preparation for the multi-pitch routes in Cody’s South Fork Valley.

Follow Up Climbs

cody1

Cody, WY & South Fork Valley Ice: Getting Here

Cody is located in the NW corner of Wyoming, approximately 50 miles east of Yellowstone National Park’s east entrance. Just 25 minutes SW of Cody lies the South Fork Valley and the majority of the classic ice climbs in the area. The approaches to the climbs can range from 20 minutes to an hour, and are often free from snow which offers a more “hassle-free” experience.

plane-icon The Yellowstone Regional Airport is the year-round airport for the area and is just 2 minutes from downtown Cody. Both SkyWest/Delta (through Salt Lake City) and United Express (through Denver) fly into Cody, Wyoming.

suv-icon Below are some approximate driving times if you’d like to drive to Cody. If you plan on driving or renting a car, please consider the winter weather when selecting your vehicle and at a minimum choose something that offers either front wheel or all-wheel drive.

  • Salt Lake City, UT: 7.5 hours
  • Bozeman, MT: 3.5 hours
  • Denver, CO: 7.5 hours

 

hotel-icon-2 While climbing in the South Fork Valley you’ll be staying in the town of Cody, and below are some lodging options.  Give our office a call at 800-642-5389 if you have any questions about what would suit you best for this trip!

  • Big Bear Motel
  • Super 8 Motel
  • The Cody Hotel

Program Policies

Registration & Cancellation

Advance Registration is required for this program.  You have the option to either call our office and register via phone or utilize our secure Online Reservation System.  All participants must read and sign an Assumption of Risks/Liability Waiver and agree to our Reservations and Cancellations Policies.

Inclusions

  • Guiding and Instruction with an AMGA Certified/Trained Guide
  • All ice climbing gear (harness, helmet, ice tools, crampons, boots etc.)
  • Round-trip transportation to and from the climbing area and our office

 

Exclusions

  • Transportation to Cody, WY
  • Hotel costs before, during, or after the program
  • Guide gratuity
  • Lunch food or snacks
  • Personal hiking/climbing clothing
  • Trip Cancellation Insurance (recommended)
  • Costs associated with weather delays or other variables beyond the control of San Juan Mountain Guides

cody-wy-ice-climbing

Book This Trip!

We Offer Online Registration

  1. Click on Book This Trip
  2. Select your Program dates
  3. Enter your Info and Payment

 

Or, call 800.642.5389 to register

book-this-trip-ice