Advanced Alpine Climbing Course Itinerary

Day 0

Arrive in Estes Park the day before the trip begins and check in to your hotel.  Ideally you would want to arrive in the late morning or early afternoon to help aid in your adjustment to the altitude (if necessary).

Day 1

The course starts off meeting in Boulder or Estes Park at a local coffee shop to talk about the course, the participant’s expectations and their goals. Right after intros we’re going to discuss the gear needed and issue any missing gear. From there we will travel to a nearby local crag and get right into learning alpine skills. At the crag you will learn all the skills and techniques needed for the next two days of climbing. Depending on the participant’s ability and comprehension of the skills needed there maybe time in the day to finish off with a multi-pitch climb. Stay in a hotel.

Day 2

Instructor Demo Climb. Today, your guide will lead you on a demo climb where they will demonstrate all of the skills necessary to pull of an alpine climb. From route planning and navigation to the climb itself, your goal on this day will be to absorb as much information as possible from your guide as you will be asked to begin leading specific aspects of the course after this day. Typically we will do a climb such as the Petit Grepon.  Stay in a hotel.

Day 3

We meet in the morning and insure that you are prepared for the next 4 days and 3 nights in the backcountry. After packing up, we will drive to the Bear Lake Trailhead and proceed on the Fern-Odessa trail to Lake Helene towards Notchtop where we will make camp for the evening. Along the way we’ll discuss concepts related to route finding, navigation, and LNT Principles. Camp out.

Day 4

Rising early, we will head for an attempt and climb of Notchtop via the Direct South Ridge (5.6, III). This route offers a series of route finding challenges and represents an excellent progressive step in difficulty on the course. Along the way, we will instruct and demonstrate aspects of alpine anchors, belay transitions, station/rope management, risk management best practices and more as we make our way up the route. After summiting we will descend back to our camp. We will then pack up our camp and navigate our way towards the base of Hallet Peak – our next objective. Camp out.

Day 5

Rising early again, today will climb the Culp-Bossier Route on Hallet Peak. If appropriate, participants will be given the opportunity to lead specific parts of the route and demonstrate alpine climbing skills that your guide will evaluate and assess, providing constructive feedback along the way. After the descent we will move camp a final time for an ascent of another peak in the range. Camp out.

Day 6

Our final day of the program offers the opportunity for participants to “put it all together” with a student led ascent of either Sharkstooth or Spearhead. After the climb we will descend back to the trailhead. A celebratory dinner will be followed by a course debrief and final assessment with your guide. Stay in a hotel or depart.

Training & Follow Up Climbs

As always, being in excellent physical shape is an important component of our our programs. A good mixture of cardiovascular fitness, muscular fitness, and especially core strength will help you to maximize the potential rewards that are possible on a great climbing trip.

Before Your Trip

Participants should feel comfortable with the skills and curriculum from our Intermediate Alpine Climbing Course or equivalent. Participants should also be able to comfortably top-rope climbs at the 5.9 level.

For the Advanded Alpine Climbing Course you should be ready for:

• Hiking approximately 5 – 8 miles per day with up to a 30 lb pack at altitudes between 8,000′ – 11,000 ‘
• 8 – 10 hour summit days with a lighter “day pack”
• Wilderness travel and backcountry ethics

Follow Up Climbs

• Hallet Peak
• Alaska Mountaineering Seminar
• Ice Leaders Seminar
• The Diamond: Longs Peak

Estes Park, Colorado: Getting There

Estes Park, Colorado is located in the Northeastern part of Colorado and approximately 45 minutes from Boulder. A mecca for climbing, hiking, cycling, and foodies; make sure you plan to spend some time in town before and after your SJMG trip. Estes Park serves as the launching point for all of our climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park.

*If you are planning to combine additional days of climbing in Eldorado Canyon or The Flatirons then Boulder, CO is also a logical place to base your lodging for your trip.

 The best option for flying to the area is to fly into Denver, CO. Many airline options exist, and because Denver is a major airline and travel destination there are typically many one-way flights to choose from.

 You will likely need a to organize a rental car to drive to Estes Park from Denver. Typically in the summer months you can choose any type of vehicle but in the spring and winter months please consider that weather can change rapidly in the mountains so an All Wheel Drive or Four Wheel Drive vehicle is worth considering. Below are some approximate driving times to get to Estes Park, CO.

• Denver, CO: 1.5 hours
• Boulder, CO: 45 minutes
• Colorado Springs, CO: 2.5 hours

Estes Park has a number of great hotels, suites, and vacation rentals for you to stay in while you’re in the area. Give our office a call at 800-642-5389 if you have any questions about what would suit you best for this trip! Below are just a few options catering to different lodging styles and preferences.

• Rocky Mountain Park Inn
• Rodeway Inn
• Hotel Estes

Boulder, CO also has a number of great hotels, suites, and vacation rentals for you to stay in while you’re in the area. Give our office a call at 800-642-5389 if you have any questions about what would suit you best for this trip!

• Boulder Adventure Lodge
• Holiday Inn Express Boulder
• Boulder Marriott

Program Policies

Registration & Cancellation

Advance Registration is required for this program.  You have the option to either call our office and register via phone or utilize our secure Online Reservation System.  All participants must read and sign an Assumption of Risks/Liability Waiver and agree to our Reservations and Cancellations Policies.

Inclusions

• Guiding and instruction with an AMGA Certified/Trained Guide
• All alpine climbing gear (harness, helmet, boots, crampons etc.),
• Round-trip transportation to and from trailhead

Exclusions

• Transportation to Estes Park, CO
• Hotel costs before, during, or after the program
• Guide gratuity
• Lunch food or snacks
• Personal hiking/climbing clothing
• Trip Cancellation Insurance (recommended)
• Costs associated with weather delays or other variables beyond the control of San Juan Mountain Guides