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Advanced Alpine Climbing

Intermediate Alpine Climbing
November 21, 2016
RMNP Private Guiding
November 22, 2016

Advanced Alpine Rock: Alpine Leadership

If you are passionate about alpine rock climbing and serious about mastering the foundation of skills required to progress your leading ability and safety in the mountains then this is the program for you. Receiving instruction and mentorship from our AMGA Certified Guides will set you on the path to success for future alpine climbing endeavors – wherever they may be.

The venue of Rocky Mountain National Park provides the ideal location and set of objectives for this cutting edge program. The course culminates in at least three and sometimes four technical mountain ascents that utilize all the skills that were covered in the course. This course is also a great precursor to attempting objectives in the Sierras, Tetons, North Cascades, or other peaks and climbs throughout Colorado’s Rocky Mountains.

Our client-to-guide ratio for this course is a low 2:1, and offers the maximum amount of instruction and individual attention to insure that you leave this course with a solid foundation of skills and understanding of how to undertake and lead your own alpine climbing adventure.

The Course Progression

This course is builds upon the skills and experience you may have gained on our Intro and Intermediate Alpine Climbing Courses (or equivalent). We focus on gaining mileage on many of RMNP’s classic routes and towards the end of the course will challenge you to identify and execute the ascent of our final objective. Course participants will be required to demonstrate proficiency in the following skills:

rexerMulti-Day route planning
rexerAdvanced anchors – faster with less material
rexerFast & Light gear and equipment considerations
rexerTime management plans and the Munter method
rexerDemonstrate lead climbing ability at a 5.7 level
rexerDefeating a weighted and unweighted plaquette
rexerSelf-rescue techniques & improvised ascension

2018 Dates

July 16 – 21

July 30 – August 4

August 13 – 18

September 2 – 7

September 17  – 22

 

Costs

$1799 per person

rexerNo Hidden Fees

Includes:
  • Guiding and instruction with an AMGA Certified/Trained Guide
  • All alpine climbing gear (harness, helmet, boots, crampons etc.),
  • Transportation to the trailhead and back


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Advanced Alpine Climbing Course Itinerary

Day 0

Arrive in Estes Park the day before the trip begins and check in to your hotel.  Ideally you would want to arrive in the late morning or early afternoon to help aid in your adjustment to the altitude (if necessary).

Day 1

The course starts off meeting in Boulder or Estes Park at a local coffee shop to talk about the course, the participant’s expectations and their goals. Right after intros we’re going to discuss the gear needed and issue any missing gear. From there we will travel to a nearby local crag and get right into learning alpine skills. At the crag you will learn all the skills and techniques needed for the next two days of climbing. Depending on the participant’s ability and comprehension of the skills needed there maybe time in the day to finish off with a multi-pitch climb. Stay in a hotel.

Day 2

Instructor Demo Climb. Today, your guide will lead you on a demo climb where they will demonstrate all of the skills necessary to pull of an alpine climb. From route planning and navigation to the climb itself, your goal on this day will be to absorb as much information as possible from your guide as you will be asked to begin leading specific aspects of the course after this day. Typically we will do a climb such as the Petit Grepon.  Stay in a hotel.

Day 3

We meet in the morning and insure that you are prepared for the next 4 days and 3 nights in the backcountry. After packing up, we will drive to the Bear Lake Trailhead and proceed on the Fern-Odessa trail to Lake Helene towards Notchtop where we will make camp for the evening. Along the way we’ll discuss concepts related to route finding, navigation, and LNT Principles. Camp out.

Day 4

Rising early, we will head for an attempt and climb of Notchtop via the Direct South Ridge (5.6, III). This route offers a series of route finding challenges and represents an excellent progressive step in difficulty on the course. Along the way, we will instruct and demonstrate aspects of alpine anchors, belay transitions, station/rope management, risk management best practices and more as we make our way up the route. After summiting we will descend back to our camp. We will then pack up our camp and navigate our way towards the base of Hallet Peak – our next objective. Camp out.

Day 5

Rising early again, today will climb the Culp-Bossier Route on Hallet Peak. If appropriate, participants will be given the opportunity to lead specific parts of the route and demonstrate alpine climbing skills that your guide will evaluate and assess, providing constructive feedback along the way. After the descent we will move camp a final time for an ascent of another peak in the range. Camp out.

Day 6

Our final day of the program offers the opportunity for participants to “put it all together” with a student led ascent of either Sharkstooth or Spearhead. After the climb we will descend back to the trailhead. A celebratory dinner will be followed by a course debrief and final assessment with your guide. Stay in a hotel or depart.

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Advanced Alpine Climbing Equipment List

Duffel BagDescriptionGuide's Pick
1 - 2 Large, durable bags for oragnizing and transporting your gear during airline travel etc.
BackpackDescriptionGuide's Pick
Osprey’s Variant 52 is the ultimate pack for expedition and high alpine climbers. Designed to carry specialized mountain gear such as skis, wands, ice protection, and ice tools, this pack can be easily stripped down to minimize weight for a summit push.
ThermosDescriptionGuide's Pick
Coffee is the lifeblood of champions. We highly encourage the consumption of coffee on our programs. The darker the better.
Water BottlesDescriptionGuide's Pick
We recommend wide mouth Nalgene (or similar) water bottles for the majority of our programs. Two 1 liter bottles is the standard for days in the mountains.
Bottle InsulatorsDescriptionGuide's Pick
Insulating water bottle parkas are recommended in the winter months, for ice climbing or cold weather alpine trips.
Stuff SacksDescriptionGuide's Pick
Stuff sacks are a great way to organize your gear in your pack and help to keep things tidy in a variety of ways. A great addition to any of our programs.
Personal FoodDescriptionGuide's Pick
Lunch begins when breakfast ends and ends when dinner begins. Bring what you like to eat and consider the length, relative difficulty, weight, and other factors when deciding what to bring in the mountains with you. A variety is always best. Don't be afraid of Mr. T.
SunglassesDescriptionGuide's Pick
A good pair of wrap around sunglasses are an essential item for all of our trips. When the sun shines brightly on fresh snow in the mountains your eyes will thank you for a quality pair of shades. Looking good is important too.
SunscreenDescriptionGuide's Pick
Essential for all of our programs. SPF 30 would be our minimum recommendation. Typically a 4 oz. bottle will suffice but consider trip length when deciding how much to pack.
Lip BalmDescriptionGuide's Pick
Lip balm is important to bring on all trips. SPF 15 or higher is recommended.
HeadlampDescriptionGuide's Pick
A headlamp is recommended for all of our programs and is an essential piece of equipment you will use in a variety of circumstances. Most LED type headlamps will do but we recommend the Black Diamond Storm for its versatility.
First Aid KitDescriptionGuide's Pick
An excellent investment for all of our programs. Our guides always carry a comprehensive medical kit but it's nice to have your own as well.
Small KnifeDescriptionGuide's Pick
A small knife is an indispensable tool to carry with you in the mountains. We like the Spatha knife for its size, weight, versatility, and ability to clip onto a harness.
Digital CameraDescriptionGuide's Pick
While phones these days offer excellent quality, nothing beats the reliability of a dedicated digital camera. You'll be glad you brought it and your guide will make sure to help capture the moment of you being awesome.
Hand WarmersDescriptionGuide's Pick
An optional item, but nice to have on cold weather climbs and courses. Consider having a few stowed away in your pack and you can break them out if you feel you need them.
SocksDescriptionGuide's Pick
Synthetic socks area must for all outdoor activities. Select a pair that fits well, is warm, and is comfortable. Bring 2-3 pairs depending on the type of trip.
Base Layer TopDescriptionGuide's Pick
Choosing the right base layer really makes a difference in comfort, moisture-wicking, and the balance between cool and warm at the right time and in the right places. The Outdoor Research Echo Hoody also offers good sun protection.
Base Layer BottomDescriptionGuide's Pick
Similar to the base layer top. These are wear all the time in all conditions base layer pants. A must have for alpine and ice climbing trips and objectives.
Mid Weight TopDescriptionGuide's Pick
One of the best mid-weight layers we've ever worn. The Outdoor Research Deviator Hoody combines all the best features of a mid-layer into one supremely well-fitting piece of technical hybrid inner/outwear. The layer does so many things so well it's one of the few pieces we wear throughout the year.
Soft Shell JacketDescriptionGuide's Pick
Our most ruggedly built Ferrosi piece is an alpine focused style that can really take a beating. Using Cordura® fabric in the main body, this hooded jacket provides additional abrasion-resistance while shrugging off wind and light rain. The Halo Hood™ seals out bad weather without limiting peripheral vision.
Soft Shell PantsDescriptionGuide's Pick
The Cirque Pants are a durable, heavy-weight technical soft shell pant built for high-energy climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing. The highly breathable, wind and weather-resistant double-weave stretch fabric excels in high-mountain conditions. The zippered thigh pocket ensures energy bars and maps remain easily accessible.
Insulated ParkaDescriptionGuide's Pick
Pack it for those days where you need just a touch of down insulation, or on those cold days on the chairlift when an extra layer might be crucial. Our new hooded version of the Filament has the same design as the popular hood-less version and a DWR-treated shell of ultralight 10D Pertex® Quantum GL keeps moisture away from premium 800-fill down inside.
Insulated VestDescriptionGuide's Pick
Same spirit, same guts, and same award-winning hybrid-mapped design of the Cathode Hooded Jacket, minus the sleeves and hood. An insulated vest is an optional item on our programs but we do think vests offer excellent flexible layering options in a variety of circumstances, weather conditions, and trip types.
Shell JacketDescriptionGuide's Pick
Our Outside Magazine and Men’s Journal “Gear of the Year” award-winning storm shell is engineered for fast-and-light alpine climbs and all-day backcountry tours. You need at minimum either a soft shell jacket or hard shell jacket for local Ouray based winter courses and programs.
Built for flash-storm protection, the 100% waterproof, super-breathable Helium II weighs an incredibly light 6.4 ounces. An ultra-compressible piece you’ll never leave behind, it’s so light and packs down so small you’ll forget it’s clipped to your harness until you throw it on to ward off a sudden mid-route downpour.
Shell PantsDescriptionGuide's Pick
Waterproof, breathable and lightweight, the GORE-TEX® Foray Pants provide dependable rain protection and shrug off the wear-and-tear of the trail and cityscape alike.
Warm HatDescriptionGuide's Pick
The Booster’s reversible design lets you choose. The soft yarn blend will provide a cozy sanctuary throughout winter’s chill.
Baseball CapDescriptionGuide's Pick
A required item on the majority of our programs, a baseball cap helps to keep harmful sun off your face. The Radar Pocket cap is packable, durable, and looks great!
Lightweight GlovesDescriptionGuide's Pick
Updated for touchscreen compatibility, the StormTracker Sensor Gloves are equally at home alpine climbing, ski touring or ice climbing. Low-profile GORE® WINDSTOPPER®. Soft Shell fabric deflects biting gusts, and a tricot lining retains valuable heat.
Midweight GlovesDescriptionGuide's Pick
Built to handle cold mornings on the up-track and powder turns all the way back down, these versatile gloves feature a new stretch nylon shell outer, a goat leather palm with textured fingertips, and a warm, quick-drying wool blend lining.
Balaclava or BuffDescriptionGuide's Pick
Simple, effective and infinitely adaptable, Original BUFF® headwear is the product that started the multifunctional headwear revolution. At its core is a moisture-managing microfiber fabric that is wind resistant and able to control odor. We recommend the BUFF for all of our programs as a multi-purpose insulation piece and trendy headgear!
Belay DeviceDescriptionGuide's Pick
A belay device is a required item on any of our technical climbing or mountaineering courses. While not necessary to have the Guide ATC specifically, we think owning one of these offers additional versatility as you progress and gain additional knowledge about the various levels of functionality provided by a device of this type.
HarnessDescriptionGuide's Pick
The BD Aspect Harness is a great all around performer for all types of climbing - ice, rock, alpine etc. The adjustable leg loops and integrated ice clipper loops make this a solid investment as your do-all harness.
Locking CarabinersDescriptionGuide's Pick
We recommend at minimum 2 - 3 personal locking carabiners on our climbing courses and any technical private guided program. We prefer classic screw gate carabiners over other types of locking mechanisms.
Climbing HelmetDescriptionGuide's Pick
A versatile, hybrid-shell helmet for lightweight protection in any discipline, the Vector features excellent ventilation and a ratcheting adjuster.
Non Locking CarabinersDescriptionGuide's Pick
A selection of non-locking carabiners is recommended on all of our technical climbing programs. Consider at least 4 - 6 and we prefer wire gate carabiners over more traditional gate carabiners. Many options exist so just consider a variety when putting your carabiner rack together!
Climbing BootsDescriptionGuide's Pick
Light and fast this boot makes you feel like a wood nymph bounding through the mountains. All synthetic and designed for spider like alpine climbing performance; it is waterproof and ready for a semi-automatic crampon. The Vibram® Mulaz outsole, has an edging platform and sticky Supertrek Rubber. The 3D Flex™ ankle provides supreme ankle maneuverability for technical routes.
Adjustable Trekking PolesDescriptionGuide's Pick
This is an optional item on our programs. However, a good pair of trekking poles is a worthy piece of gear to have with you for long approaches or treks through the mountains. There are many added benefits to trekking poles. The new BD Distance series poles are light, collapsible, and adjustable.
CordelletesDescriptionGuide's Pick
Accessory cord or cordelette material is essential equipment that offer great versatility in use and application. Consider getting a few for your climbing rack.
SlingsDescriptionGuide's Pick
Climbing slings or runners are an excellent compliment to your climbing gear. Versatile in their use and applicability, consider having a few of each length on your rack.
Sleeping PadDescriptionGuide's Pick
The Therm-a-Rest NeoAir All Season mattress is lightweight, durable, extremely warm, and the ultimate solution to year-round backcountry comfort. Stable construction and 2.5-inch thickness offer greater comfort for a full night of sleep, so you won't feel the uneven, rough terrain beneath you.
Sleeping BagDescriptionGuide's Pick
The Western Mountaineering MegaLite 30 Degree Sleeping Bag large cut sleeping bag for bigger folks or those seeking plenty of space. Have a fear of being closed in or perhaps a wide set of shoulders? This 850+ down fill sleeping bag has a 64" shoulder girth and 39" foot girth. Lay back and enjoy being wrapped in soft, fluffy down on nights down to 30°F.
Mountain CramponsDescriptionGuide's Pick
A classic 10-point crampon for mountaineering and glacier travel, the Contact features a durable stainless steel construction and a stable, lightweight design. Available in a Strap or Clip version.

Training & Follow Up Climbs

As always, being in excellent physical shape is an important component of our our programs. A good mixture of cardiovascular fitness, muscular fitness, and especially core strength will help you to maximize the potential rewards that are possible on a great climbing trip.

Before Your Trip

Participants should feel comfortable with the skills and curriculum from our Intermediate Alpine Climbing Course or equivalent. Participants should also be able to comfortably top-rope climbs at the 5.9 level.

For the Advanded Alpine Climbing Course you should be ready for:

  • Hiking approximately 5 – 8 miles per day with up to a 30 lb pack at altitudes between 8,000′ – 11,000 ‘
  • 8 – 10 hour summit days with a lighter “day pack”
  • Wilderness travel and backcountry ethics

Follow Up Climbs

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Estes Park, Colorado: Getting There

Estes Park, Colorado is located in the Northeastern part of Colorado and approximately 45 minutes from Boulder. A mecca for climbing, hiking, cycling, and foodies; make sure you plan to spend some time in town before and after your SJMG trip. Estes Park serves as the launching point for all of our climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park.

*If you are planning to combine additional days of climbing in Eldorado Canyon or The Flatirons then Boulder, CO is also a logical place to base your lodging for your trip.

plane-icon The best option for flying to the area is to fly into Denver, CO. Many airline options exist, and because Denver is a major airline and travel destination there are typically many one-way flights to choose from.

 

suv-icon You will likely need a to organize a rental car to drive to Estes Park from Denver. Typically in the summer months you can choose any type of vehicle but in the spring and winter months please consider that weather can change rapidly in the mountains so an All Wheel Drive or Four Wheel Drive vehicle is worth considering. Below are some approximate driving times to get to Estes Park, CO.

  • Denver, CO: 1.5 hours
  • Boulder, CO: 45 minutes
  • Colorado Springs, CO: 2.5 hours

 

hotel-icon-2 Estes Park has a number of great hotels, suites, and vacation rentals for you to stay in while you’re in the area. Give our office a call at 800-642-5389 if you have any questions about what would suit you best for this trip! Below are just a few options catering to different lodging styles and preferences.

Boulder, CO also has a number of great hotels, suites, and vacation rentals for you to stay in while you’re in the area. Give our office a call at 800-642-5389 if you have any questions about what would suit you best for this trip!

Program Policies

Registration & Cancellation

Advance Registration is required for this program.  You have the option to either call our office and register via phone or utilize our secure Online Reservation System.  All participants must read and sign an Assumption of Risks/Liability Waiver and agree to our Reservations and Cancellations Policies.

Inclusions

  • Guiding and instruction with an AMGA Certified/Trained Guide
  • All alpine climbing gear (harness, helmet, boots, crampons etc.),
  • Round-trip transportation to and from trailhead

Exclusions

  • Transportation to Estes Park, CO
  • Hotel costs before, during, or after the program
  • Guide gratuity
  • Lunch food or snacks
  • Personal hiking/climbing clothing
  • Trip Cancellation Insurance (recommended)
  • Costs associated with weather delays or other variables beyond the control of San Juan Mountain Guides

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Book This Trip!

We Offer Online Registration

  1. Click on Book This Trip
  2. Select your Program dates
  3. Enter your Info and Payment

 

Or, call 800.642.5389 to register