Intro to Mountaineering Course Itinerary

Day 0

Arrive in Ouray the day before the trip begins and check in to your hotel. Ideally you would want to arrive in the late morning or early afternoon to help aid in your adjustment to the altitude.

Day 1

Introduction to ice climbing. After getting outfitted we proceed to the Ouray Ice Park. We learn the basics of using crampons and ice tools to climb, emphasizing proper body positions and becoming an efficient climber. We continue refining our techniques and progress toward steeper ice climbs. We also cover basic ice anchors used for top roping and setting up a rappel. After Ice Climbing we will meet at the SJMG shop to do a gear check and discuss the itinerary for the following three days of the program. Come with your mountaineering packs ready for a check. Stay in a hotel.

Day 2

We drive to the trailhead at the top of Coal Bank Pass, load up our packs with gear and food, put on our snow shoes, and begin the approach to base camp. On the way, we discuss route finding and avalanche safety, focusing on snow condition evaluation and hazardous terrain recognition. Once we get settled into base camp we head out and practice using avalanche beacons.  Camp out.

Day 3

We begin the day by examining the snowpack and digging a hasty pit in order to assess the avalanche potential of a particular given slope. After examining the snowpack we work on gaining knowledge of snow climbing techniques, and learn and practice the many different positions in which to use the ice axe as a self belay and self arrest tool. We then move into learning how to incorporate the rope for additional safety. We practice snow anchors, snow belays and how to safely travel as a rope team.  Camp out.

Day 4

Today we get up early and attempt the Northeast Ridge of Engineer Mountain (12,978 ft.). This is a spectacular alpine climb with exposed ridges and some moderately steep snow and rock climbing. We employ many of the skills we practiced on day two. The climb moves along a narrow ridge with a few steep sections. We use rope and snow protection on the ascent. Stay in hotel or depart.

Training & Follow Up Climbs

As always, being in excellent physical shape is an important component of our our programs. A good mixture of cardiovascular fitness, muscular fitness, and especially core strength will help you to maximize the potential rewards that are possible on a great climbing trip.

Before Your Trip

Familiarity with basic climbing principles such as knots, belaying, rappelling, and rock climbing technique can be very helpful for our Intro Course participants. Though not required, prior multi-day backpacking experience will help you to acquire and assimilate the information covered in our mountaineering course progression as quickly as possible.

For the Intro to Winter Mountaineering Course you should be ready for:

• Hiking approximately 4 miles per day with up to a 40 lb pack at altitudes between 8,000′ – 11,000 ‘
• 5-7 hour summit days with a lighter “day pack”
• Cold weather wilderness travel and camping

Follow Up Climbs

• Denali Prep Course
• Alaska Mountaineering Seminar
• Intermediate Ice Climbing Course
• Long’s Peak, Rocky Mountain National Park

Ouray, Colorado: Getting Here

Ouray is located in the SW corner of Colorado, approximately 30 minutes south of Montrose. Known as “The Switzerland of America”, the town of Ouray is a vibrant outdoor oriented community. All local businesses are very friendly to the ice climbers who flock each winter to climb in the Ouray Ice Park and surrounding areas.

 The best option for flying to the area is to fly into Montrose, CO. Many airline options exist, and most connections originate from Denver, CO, however, many airlines now offer direct flights into Montrose – especially during the summer and winter months.

It is also possible to fly into Grand Junction, Durango, Telluride, or Denver CO. It may be necessary to rent a car and drive to Ouray if you’d like to fly into one of these airports.

 Below are some approximate driving times if you’d like to drive to Ouray. If you plan on renting a car, please consider the winter weather when selecting your vehicle and at a minimum choose something that offers either front wheel or all-wheel drive.

• Montrose, CO: 45 minutes
• Durango, CO: 2 hours
• Denver, CO: 5.5 hours

 Ouray has a number of great hotels, suites, and vacation rentals for you to stay in while you’re in the area. Give our office a call at 800-642-5389 if you have any questions about what would suit you best for this trip!

• Ouray Chalet
• Ouray Comfort Inn
• China Clipper Inn
• Sneffels Suite
• Sneffels House

Program Policies

Registration & Cancellation

Advance Registration is required for this program.  You have the option to either call our office and register via phone or utilize our secure Online Reservation System.  All participants must read and sign an Assumption of Risks/Liability Waiver and agree to our Reservations and Cancellations Policies.

Inclusions

• Guiding and instruction with an AMGA Certified/Trained Guide
• Breakfasts & Dinners on the mountain
• All alpine climbing gear (harness, helmet, boots, crampons etc.),
• Group camping and cooking equipment (tents, stoves, etc.)
• Round-trip transportation to and from trailhead and our office

Exclusions

• Transportation to Ouray, CO
• Hotel costs before, during, or after the program
• Guide gratuity
• Lunch food or snacks
• Personal hiking/climbing clothing
• Trip Cancellation Insurance (recommended)
• Costs associated with weather delays or other variables beyond the control of San Juan Mountain Guides