San Juan Ice Conditions
Ouray, Silverton, and Telluride Ice
We take pride in staying current on Ouray Ice Conditions and for all major ice climbs in the Ouray, Silverton, and Telluride areas. Check back often for updates, pictures, and trip reports!
February 9, 2016 – Despite warming day time temperatures we have had consistent cold nights well below freezing. The Ice Conditions in the Ouray Ice Park are great, be aware of warming temps. The backcountry ice routes have maintained excellent condition. The south facing routes are not in. Again, be aware of ice fall with warming day time temperatures. Check the Colorado Avalanche Information Center for updates on AVY conditions before you choose BC Ice Routes. All in all conditions are holding strong and the ice climbing is fantastic!
January 11, 2016 – We are close to the halfway point of the ice season and everything is looking pretty good. We are in a great ice making cycle with ideal temperatures and plenty of snow available for melt/freeze. Climbs like the Killer Pillar are in great condition right now, and Gravity’s/Kennedy’s have come into condition and have seen ascents, though with the sun out in the last couple of days they might not be around for much longer unless it stays cold and overcast – so stay tuned to the forecast and be prepared to start early! The Ice Park is 90% open with a few spot closures.
As always, be safe out there and watch the winds and avalanche hazard (click here for CAIC North San Juan forecast) carefully as they relate to your plans for ice climbing. Enjoy!
Ouray Ice Park [January 11, 2016]
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|Ouray Ice Park Climbing Areas||Status|
|School Room to Lead Area||Open|
|Lead Area/Upper Bridge||Open|
|Between the Bridges||Open|
|Sh%thouse & Stump Wall||Open|
Camp Bird Road Climbs [January 11, 2016]
|Camp Bird Area Ice Climb||Status|
|Racing Stripes||PG-13 Conditions. Lots of avy danger above|
|The Ribbon||In. Watch spindrift and avy conditions above|
|Birdbrain Boulevard||In. Getting climbed|
|The Talisman||1st Pitch Not In. PG-13 Conditions|
|Killer Pillar||In. Fat this year. Small to medium cams useful for bottom|
Ouray Valley & HWY 550 [January 11, 2016]
|Ouray Valley & HWY 550 Ice Climb||Status|
|Dexter Creek Slabs||In Fat|
|Cascade Falls||Has been climbed. In and out of condition with sun|
|Sunslpash/Solar Circus||In and out. Depends on temps/sun|
|Kennedy’s Gully||In and out. Depends on temps/sun|
|Gravity’s Rainbow||In and out. Depends on temps/sun|
Silverton Eureka Canyon [January 11, 2016]
Click here for the current avalanche hazard forecast for the Northern San Juans before you go!
|Eureka Canyon Ice Climb||Status|
|Dukes of Hazzard||In. Short mandatory mixed on 2nd pitch 2 medium cams useful for anchor|
|Giant Steps||In. But a long hike|
|Whorehouse Ice Hose||In. Top of 3rd pitch (right) delaminated at top. Holes on 2nd pitch|
|Highway to Hell||In|
|Stairway to Heaven||In|
|Gully’s 1 & 2||In|
|Tempered by Fire/Fat City||In|
South Mineral Creek [January 11, 2016]
The road is no longer drive-able, long mandatory ski/snowsoe or snowmobile approach. Also watch avy hazard in that zone.
|South Mineral Creek Ice Climb||Status|
|Road Conditions to Climbs||Road Closed|
|Direct North Face||In|
Telluride Area [January 11, 2016]
…where the big kids go to get pumped on ice.
|Telluride Area Ice Climb||Status|
|Bridalveil Falls||In. Steep this year.|
|Ames Ice Hose||In. Ice all the way|
|Sapphire Bullets||No info|