Chopicalqui and Yanapaccha Expedition Itinerary

The SJMG Difference

SJMG has been running programs in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca since the late 90’s. As a result, we have developed an in-depth understanding of what it takes to manage the overall flow and logistics of the Alpamayo Expedition.  From a refined and time-tested itinerary, and up-to-date and detailed knowledge of the routes on Chopicalqui and Yanapaccha, to choosing the perfect hotels and other local operators – you can rest assured that our program represents the best in the industry when it comes to the execution of all the little details that help make this a rewarding and successful experience. Our Peru expeditions will be lead by our senior guide Elias de Andres, who is nearing 30 incursions into this mountain range, bilingual in Spanish-English and with a long relationship with our local outfitter, Elias will guarantee the best odds for your success.

Day 1

Depart the U.S. for Lima, Peru. Most flights arrive in Lima in the late evening. Upon arrival, a taxi ride takes you to our hotel. Overnight in Lima.

Day 2

We leave Lima and make the drive in a private van to Huaraz (9.500), the gateway to the Cordillera Blanca, which will take most of the day. In the evening, relax at the hotel.

Day 3

Today we acclimatize in Huaraz, with a half-day hike to Churup Lake at 14,400′. In the afternoon, we review the equipment we need for the climb and pack for next day’s departure to the mountains. Overnight in Huaraz.

Day 4

CEBOLLAPAMPA BASE CAMP: Leaving Huaraz in the morning, we make the two-hour drive to Cebollapampa (12,800′). We set up camp in this beautiful meadow, surrounded by some of the most iconic peaks of the range. In the afternoon we hike to Lake 69 (15,250′), a very picturesque glacial lagoon perched underneath Nevado Pisco and Chacraraju.

Day 5

ACCLIMATIZATION AT BASE CAMP: We spend the day at BC, acclimatizing and giving our bodies a rest before work starts up high. We also organize the loads of gear that will be carried our higher camp.

Day 6

YANAPACCHA CAMP: We say goodbye to our cook and the luxuries of Base Camp and move to Camp 1. Located on the very edge of the glacier, we reach camp by walking on slabs of smooth granite, eroded by the receding glacier.

Day 7

YANAPACCHA SUMMIT DAY (17,716′): Today we tackle the first of our summit attempts for this expedition. A moderate glacier climb, brings us to the upper slopes, and from here, two steep pitches of snow and ice give us access to Yanapaccha’s summit. After enjoying the views we retrace our steps to Camp 1. We will spend the night here to continue to acclimatize

Day 8

CEBOLLAPAMPA BASE CAMP: We descend in the morning to Base Camp from our climb, and spend the rest of the day resting and enjoying our well earned first summit in the Cordillera Blanca.

Day 9

CEBOLLAPAMPA BASE CAMP: We continue to rest today at the same time as we prepare for our move up to Chopicalqui Camp 1.

Day 10

CHOPICALQUI MORAINE CAMP (16,075′): Similar to our hike to Yanapaccha Camp 1, giant Huascaran peaks dominate the surrounding views. We make the approach to our first camp on Chopicalqui following trails through the rocky terrain until reaching the glacial moraine where we establish camp.

Day 11

CHOPICALQUI CAMP 2 (17,716′): We wake early and pack camp to start our move up to High Camp. Upon entering the glacier, we will climb ramps of up to 40 degrees on a circuitous route around the many crevasses existing on this side of the mountain.

Day 12

CHOPICALQUI SUMMIT DAY (20,846′): From our high camp, we follow the southwest ridge to the summit, with several steep climbing pitches along the route. The views from the summit are incomparable. Although this is the most strenuous day of the trip, the views and reward of the involved climbing, make it all worthwhile. We descend to Camp 1 for the night, rappelling the steep steps we climbed on the ascent.

Day 13

DESCEND TO HUARAZ (10,000′):  After another early wake-up, we take camp down and head to Base Camp, where our cook will greet us with a well-earned brunch. We’ll dismantle our tents, load the bus and return to Huaraz.

Day 14

CONTINGENCY DAY: We reserve this day for unforeseen circumstances.

Day 15

TRAVEL TO LIMA: After breakfast, we load our private vehicle and begin the drive to Lima. We arrive in Lima in the late afternoon and transfer to the airport to catch our evening flights home.

Day 16

TRAVEL DAY: Arrive home.

Training & Follow Up Climbs

As always, being in excellent physical shape is an important component of our our programs. A good mixture of cardiovascular fitness, muscular fitness, and especially core strength will help you to maximize the potential rewards that are possible on a great climbing trip.

Before Your Trip

The Chopicalqui and Yanapaccha Expedition requires our participants to have previous technical climbing experience.  At a minimum, participants should have completed our Alpine Expedition Prep Course and a few days of Private Ice Guiding on ice routes such as Stairway to Heaven and Whorehouse Ice Hose.  Additionally, team members on this expedition should have previous multi-day expedition experience on climbs such as Ecuador’s Volcanoes, Denali’s West Buttress, or similar climbs in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge.

We take the screening for the Chopicalqui and Yanapaccha Expedition seriously, so please get in touch with our office if you have any questions about your fitness for the climb.  Team members should engage in a rigorous cardiovascular and upper/lower body training regimen.  The Uphill Athlete as well as Cold Fear have excellent training resources available to aspiring alpinists.

For the Expedition you should be ready for:

• Travel in a South American country – Peru
• Climbing 55 – 70 degree neve & ice at altitudes up to 6000 meters
• 12 – 15 hour summit days and early alpine starts
• Fickle weather, cold temperatures, warm temperatures, delays, other factors beyond our control

Follow Up Climbs

• Denali via The West Rib Expedition
• Cody, WY Ice Climbing
• Backcountry Ice Seminar
• Alpamayo Expedition

Huaraz, Peru: Getting There

For the purposes of practicality, all of our Peru: Cordillera Blanca programs begin and end in Lima, Peru.  However, we spend minimal time in Lima and quickly transfer our program to Huaraz (9,800′) at the base of the Cordillera Blanca.  Each climbing season (May – September), hundreds of climbers descend on Huaraz and utilize the relatively modern South American city as a base of operations from which to organize climbs and treks throughout the nearby Cordillera Blanca.  Our itinerary calls for travel to Huaraz by either 1st class bus or private vehicle.  Participants may also choose to fly into Huaraz, connecting through Lima.

We require our participants to fly into Lima, Peru. The International Airport is a busy hub for airline travel and many options exist. Most flights from the US to Lima originate in either Miami, FL or Houston, TX.  We quickly exit Lima and transfer to Huaraz by either 1st class bus or private vehicle.

We’ve never had trip participants actually drive to Peru from the US. Although it is entirely possible, we can’t recommend this option.

• Ouray, CO to Huaraz, Peru: 100+ hours

 We provide lodging in Peru for the duration of the program.

Program Policies

Registration & Cancellation

Advance Registration is required for this program.  You have the option to either call our office and register via phone or utilize our secure Online Reservation System.  All participants must read and sign an Assumption of Risks/Liability Waiver and agree to our Reservations and Cancellations Policies.

Inclusions

• Guiding and trip leadership with an AMGA Certified, Bi-lingual guides
• Ground Transportation in Peru
• All in-country lodging
• Burros, Porters, and Cooks
• Park Entrance Fees
• Breakfasts and Dinners in the mountains
• Group camping and cooking equipment (tents, stoves, etc.)
• Group climbing and technical equipment (ropes, etc.)

Exclusions

• Transportation to Lima, Peru
• Additional hotel costs before or after the program or those not planned on the itinerary
• Personal Lunch Food
• Meals or drinks in towns, cities, and hotels
• Trip cancellation insurance – recommended
• Personal alpine climbing clothing
• Costs associated with early returns, weather delays, or other factors beyond our control
• Final transfer from Lima hotel to airport
• Guide gratuity