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Trip Report – Kiener’s Route on Long’s Peak

First Time Rock Climbing!
June 29, 2016
Alpamayo Expedition July 6
July 6, 2016

Kiener’s Route on the East Face of Long’s Peak is a classic alpine route in RMNP. It’s nice to break this up into a two day trip. The first day as an approach day to Chasm Lake and the second day the ascent of Kiener’s. Steve Johnson guided this awesome route in June in terrific conditions. The route begins with a 50 degree snowfield coined the Lamb’s Slide for 1,000 ft. An Alternative start to this route if the Lamb’s Slide is out of condition is to climb the Stetner’s Ledges. This brings climbers to the intersection at the Broadway Ledges, a 1,000 foot Traverse.  At the end of this traverse is the Notch Couloir. Continuing up the couloir to the opposing wall is the beginning of Kiener’s Route. There are wonderful pitches of mixed ice, snow & rock, depending on conditions. After the exposed move past the chockstone is the super fun Kiener’s Chimney, a narrow passage of class 5 climbing. Then comes the Golden Stairway Section of really fun short pitches. At the top of the stairway climbers step around the Diamond to the summit, cruiser 2nd class hiking. From the summit climbers descend the North Face Cables Route on the edge of the Diamond to the Camel’s Hump to the gully and down to Chasm View Lake. To do Kiener’s in a day will take 15 + hours.

The day Steve climbed this route in June they had phenomenal conditions and great weather. It was such an enjoyable climb that Steve’ guest did not want it to end, even after 18 hours!

If you are interested in climbing Kiener’s Route on Long’s Peak, or any other alpine objective in RMNP, give us a call to discuss the options.

Kiener’s Route on Long’s Peak is a perfect climb to prepare for big alpine objectives such as Alaska’s Ruth Gorge Ham N’ Eggs Route.


Kieners traverse