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Trip Report May 29, 2016: Dreamweaver Route on Mt. Meeker

Successful Alaska Expeditions
May 10, 2016
First Time Rock Climbing!
June 29, 2016

With the attainment of our permit to Rocky Mountain National Park, our season has begun and we are super excited to share some trip reports with you. Please feel free to call us to discuss our programs and possible climbing objectives in RMNP.

It was a fat winter and spring in the park, that made for outstanding conditions on the Dreamweaver Route on Mt. Meeker. Steve Johnson, SJMG lead RMNP guide has climbed Dreamweaver more than a dozen times. He said by far the conditions on May 29th this year were the best he has ever seen, in full ice and perfect alpine neve conditions. “It was absolutely wonderful climbing the entire way,” states Johnson.

Dreamweaver comes into climbing shape in the spring & fall with the melt freeze cycle to create quality ice and firm snow. Best described as a mixed alpine route, it climbs through the major couloir formation to the left of the Flying Buttress on Mt. Meeker. Highlights of the route are the great gully system that eventually turns into a neat chimney, in some conditions there are rock or mixed pitches that are really fun, and the route gets better as you ascend. The top out is a 4th class ridge that brings you to the summit.

Steve’s guest Eric had a wonderful time, “It was a very enjoyable climb in perfect conditions. I learned a lot. Steve didn’t just guide me up the route, he instructed, he taught me skills, and he made it a super great learning experience.”

Other great routes on Mt. Meeker include the Flying Buttress & Darkstar. There are lots of great early season ice in RMNP, so if you are interested in getting a jump start on ice climbing in the fall, call us to set up a climb with Steve.

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