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Alpamayo Expedition July 14

All is well with the Alpamayo Expedition. The Team is relishing in their successful summit climb and fun expedition, enjoying the views today from Base Camp and relaxing. Tomorrow they will hike out to Cashapampa to head back to Huaraz. Day after tomorrow they fly to Lima. Trip reports to come after we interview the team. Thanks for following the progress of the Alapmayo Expedition numero uno!

 

 

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Alpamayo Expedition July 14

Alpamayo Expedition July 13

Both teams successfully summited Alpamayo and have returned to Base Camp. Congratulations! It is great to have a positive experience up and down the mountain. We are stoked for you all! Tomorrow they will begin the hike out. Celebrations are in order.

 

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Alpamayo Expedition July 13

Alpamayo Summit July 12

Andrés and his team had a successful summit climb of Alapamayo (19,512 ft. / 5,947 m.) last night early this morning. Conditions are fantastic! They are back at ABC. Our lead Guide Alex will attempt a summit climb tonight with his team of climbers. Way to go guys! Wishing them a fun & safe journey.

 

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Alpamayo Summit July 12

Alpamayo Expedition Summit Bid

Wishing our Alpamayo Expedition a wonderful climb tonight! The weather is looking good and the team is feeling great.

Alpamayo French Direct Route

Alpamayo French Direct Route

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Alpamayo Expedition Summit Bid

Alpamayo Expedition July 10

The Alpamayo Expedition is doing excellent. The weather is beautiful. Today they moved to Advanced Base Camp (18,000 ft /5,485 m.) The plan is to rest tomorrow and head for the summit tomorrow night. Wishing them a fun and safe climb of Alpamayo 19,512 ft. (5,947 m.) and back down. Stay tuned as we receive updates from them.

alpamayo.home.slider.2015

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Alpamayo Expedition July 10

Alpamayo Expedition July 9

Our Alpamayo Expedition team is doing great. Today they traveled to Moraine Camp (16,076 ft or 4,900 m). The weather has been variable with some rain & snow. Hoping that it clears for the duration of the trip. Best to the team as they continue upwards, tomorrow the plan is to go to Advanced Basecamp or Col Camp at 18,000 ft. Stay tuned for updates.

Advanced Base Camp

Advanced Base Camp

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Alpamayo Expedition July 9

Alpamayo Expedition July 8

Heard from the Alpamayo Team. They are doing great. Yesterday they enjoyed a rest & acclimatization day hanging out & walking around the beautiful Lago Arhuaycocha. Today they did a carry up to Moraine Camp (16,000 ft. or 4,875 m.) and are now back at Base Camp for the night. All is well, they are getting acclimatized and feeling good. Tomorrow the plan is to advance to Moraine Camp.

Alpamayo Camp

Alpamayo Camp

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Alpamayo Expedition July 8

Alpamayo Expedition July 7

All is well with the SJMG Team en route to climb Alpamayo. They are taking a rest & acclimatization day at Base Camp just over 14,000 feet. They messaged that everyone is doing great. Stay tuned for their progress. We wish them a fun journey!

alpamayo.2.3

 

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Alpamayo Expedition July 7

Alpamayo Expedition July 6

The Alpamayo Expedition team led by SJMG Andrés Marin, Brad Johnson, and Alex Torres is doing great. Together with 6 guests, they are a solid team of climbers. Yesterday they started in on the Santa Cruz Valley Trail at Cashapampa (July 5), burros loaded with gear. They hiked to the Llama-Coral Camp yesterday where they made their first camp.  We receive IN Reach Messages from the team daily. This afternoon they messaged that they arrived to Base Camp and everyone is doing super good. Base Camp is at (14,107 ft. or 4,300 m.) in the Arhuaycocha Gully, which overlooks the beautiful Lago Arhuaycocha. Glad to hear all is well, wishing them a wonderful journey in the Cordillera Blanca of the Peruvian Andes.

See where they are camping tonight.

Lago Arhuaycocha

 

 

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Alpamayo Expedition July 6

Trip Report – Kiener’s Route on Long’s Peak

Kiener’s Route on the East Face of Long’s Peak is a classic alpine route in RMNP. It’s nice to break this up into a two day trip. The first day as an approach day to Chasm Lake and the second day the ascent of Kiener’s. Steve Johnson guided this awesome route in June in terrific conditions. The route begins with a 50 degree snowfield coined the Lamb’s Slide for 1,000 ft. An Alternative start to this route if the Lamb’s Slide is out of condition is to climb the Stetner’s Ledges. This brings climbers to the intersection at the Broadway Ledges, a 1,000 foot Traverse.  At the end of this traverse is the Notch Couloir. Continuing up the couloir to the opposing wall is the beginning of Kiener’s Route. There are wonderful pitches of mixed ice, snow & rock, depending on conditions. After the exposed move past the chockstone is the super fun Kiener’s Chimney, a narrow passage of class 5 climbing. Then comes the Golden Stairway Section of really fun short pitches. At the top of the stairway climbers step around the Diamond to the summit, cruiser 2nd class hiking. From the summit climbers descend the North Face Cables Route on the edge of the Diamond to the Camel’s Hump to the gully and down to Chasm View Lake. To do Kiener’s in a day will take 15 + hours.

The day Steve climbed this route in June they had phenomenal conditions and great weather. It was such an enjoyable climb that Steve’ guest did not want it to end, even after 18 hours!

If you are interested in climbing Kiener’s Route on Long’s Peak, or any other alpine objective in RMNP, give us a call to discuss the options.

Kiener’s Route on Long’s Peak is a perfect climb to prepare for big alpine objectives such as Alaska’s Ruth Gorge Ham N’ Eggs Route.

 

Kieners traverse

 

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Trip Report – Kiener’s Route on Long’s Peak

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