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January 25, 2014

Cotopaxi Express Dispatch #4

Successful Summit of Cotopaxi! I am happy to report that on Thursday night/Friday morning, 7 out of our 9 team members reached the summit of Cotopaxi. […]
January 22, 2014

Cotopaxi Express Dispatch #3

Talked to Nate on the Sat Phone this morning.  Crew is camping near the hut and working on glacier travel skills.  The weather is reported to […]
January 20, 2014

Cotopaxi Express Dispatch #2

First Acclimatization Peak Complete Earlier today our team successfully completed a climb of Pasochoa – an extinct Volcano on the outskirts of Quito with an altitude […]
January 19, 2014

Cotopaxi Express Dispatch #1

Team Assembled in Quito Our 9 day Cotopaxi Express Expedition has begun with great success! First, all of our climbers arrived on time to Quito with […]
January 15, 2014

Placing an Ice Screw on Lead

Best Practices for Placing an Ice Screw by Dale Remsberg – IFMGA Mountain Guide Placing an ice screw while on lead has changed a lot over […]
December 19, 2013

Guide Tip: V-Threads

Rappel Ice Routes with Confidence by IFMGA Guide Pat Ormond V-Threads are a great way to rappel ice routes without having to leave gear if good […]
December 19, 2013

Featured Guide: Mark Miller

Senior SJMG Guide Mark Miller AMGA Certified Rock Guide Mark is one of the original SJMG guides working in Ouray. He has been teaching ice climbing […]
December 18, 2013

Ice Climbing Skylight Area – Ouray Colorado

Classic San Juan Backcountry Ice Recently one of our guys and  guests climbed some cool stuff up in the Skylight/Camp Bird area just minutes outside of […]
December 13, 2013

Belaying Out and Raising Your Partner – Ouray Ice Park Part 2

Essential Technique for the Ouray Ice Park In the video below, SJMG Guide and AMGA Certified Rock & Alpine Guide Dawn Glanc covers the steps involved in […]
December 11, 2013

Anchoring in the Schoolroom

Belay with Confidence in the Ouray Ice Park With the Ouray Ice Park set to open this weekend (Saturday December 14th, 2013), we thought it would […]
December 6, 2013

Lowering In, Belaying Out in the Ouray Ice Park – Part 1

Techniques to Manage Lowers and Top Belays With ice climbing season already in full swing here in the San Juans, and the opening of the Ouray […]
December 3, 2013

Level 1 Avalanche Skills for Skiers & Climbers Part 1

A bunch of early season snow has inspired me to work on a project I have been wanting to do for years – an online primer […]
November 20, 2013

Belays & Transitions for Multi-Pitch Ice

Techniques for Efficiency With backcountry ice climbing here in the San Juans and around Colorado already in full swing, we thought it would be a good […]
November 19, 2013

The Talisman: A San Juan Classic

Yesterday Thad and I decided it was finally time to get out and start swinging the ice tools.  We headed up Camp Bird Rd. outside of […]
November 14, 2013

Winter Mountaineering on Mount Sneffels

Ivan and I were able to make it up into Yankee Boy Basin this week to do some winter mountaineering.  We enjoyed perfect Colorado weather the […]
November 14, 2013

2014 Ouray Ice Fest Clinics Available!

Registration Now Open! The 2014 Ouray Ice Festival Clinics are now available for purchase.  Click on this link to go to the Clinic Schedule and Shopping […]
November 5, 2013

Ice Climbing The Ribbon

An Early Season Climb of The Ribbon Wow!  We are feeling grateful in the San Juans!  Based on the wet September and the cycles of snow, […]
November 3, 2013

Winter has come to Snowdon

Saturday, Tim and I were able to get out and climb Snowdon.  Although it’s still fall in Durango, it most definitely is winter above 10,000′.  I’m […]
October 31, 2013

Backcountry Ski Repair Kit

Essential Equipment for Ski Touring An often overlooked, but critical piece of backcountry safety equipment, is your repair kit.  After blowing up a ski binding, try […]
October 22, 2013

October Snow = Fat Early Season Ice

The Best Recipe for Early Season Ice Conditions Around the middle of October and as the temperatures in the high country start to drift towards the […]