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Alpine Climbing

July 15, 2013

Alpamayo Expedition #1 Recap

Alpamayo Summit Success! On Tuesday July 9th, we moved to high camp after a 3 day snow storm that had us tent bouded at Morraine Camp. […]
July 14, 2013

Alpamayo Team #1 Summit!

Back in High Camp Elias called to report that he and his two clients successfully summited Alpamayo and were back at high camp, preparing for the […]
July 10, 2013

Alpamayo Team Ready to Summit!

Established at Alpamayo High Camp Elias just called in with an update for their Alpamayo team.  After 3 days hunkered down at Moraine Camp due to […]
July 9, 2013

Alpamayo Expedition Updates

Progress Towards High Camp Elias and his team are making good progress on Alpamayo. On the 4th of July they checked in from basecamp, and were […]
July 2, 2013

Alpamayo Expedition Update #1

Alpamayo Expedition #1 Begins The team is finaly in the capital of Peruvian Andinismo! After a late arrival into Lima due to a flight cancellation out […]
July 1, 2013

More Info on the Telluride Via Ferrata

A Brief History and Essential Equipment Via Ferrata is the Italian name for what might fairly be called extreme hiking. First built in the Italian Dolomites […]
June 30, 2013

Vestal Basin

As I was riding the coal powered steam train up to Elk Park I was checking the weather and it didn’t look good.  NOAA was predicting […]
June 24, 2013

Southwest Ridge of Sneffels

Tim had climbed Mount Sneffels before via the standard route and was looking for a little more of a challenge.  The SW ridge is an amazing […]
June 24, 2013

Solitude East of the Vallecito

David and I left the Los Pinos trail head with food for ten days, not 100% sure where we were going.  We knew we wanted to […]
June 18, 2013

Summer Alpine Climbing: Speed = Safety

Moving Fast in the Alpine by Nate Disser – AMGA Rock & Alpine Guide Managing risk and objective hazard in alpine environments is clearly a top […]
May 19, 2013

The Fun Don’t Stop: Spring Ice in AK

As you can imagine at San Juan Mountain Guides we can never get enough steep frozen water. So as we watch the ice here in the […]
March 28, 2013

Ski Mountaineering Guide Tip

Ski Mountaineering Guide Tip Andrew Klotz – AMGA Ski Guide Spring is here and the snow is stabilizing so it is time to hit the big […]
January 29, 2013

Ice Progression Sessions

I recently had the opportunity to climb with three great guys – Kevin, Brant, and David – all of whom were long time friends prior to […]
January 14, 2013

San Juan Winter Mountaineering

Scott and Mark came out to Ouray for and intro to winter mountaineering. A day of learning to ice climb in the Ouray Ice Park. A […]
January 13, 2013

Ouray Ice Fest Backcountry

For many people the Ouray Ice Park and front country ice climbing is the extent of their ice climbing horizons. However, for the first time this […]
January 1, 2013

Ouray Highway 550: Kennedy’s Gulley

Get it while it is hot, or cold as the case may be! Cold enough for Kennedy’s Gully to come in. This is one of the […]
January 1, 2013

Ouray Highway 550: Gravity’s Rainbow

Every few years the weather provides us with enough cold and overcast days in a row for a few finicky San Juan classics to form.  At […]
December 26, 2012

Happy Holidays!

Happy Holidays from the crew at San Juan Mountain Guides. May your new year be full of hero-ice, blower-powder, and splitter hand cracks!  
July 4, 2012

Alpine Leadership

Andy and Scott recently joined me on an 8 day Alpine Leadership course. Day 1:  We started out at X-rock where we rock climbed in addition […]
June 10, 2012

Fast and Light

Robert just came out and joined me in some Fast and Light climbing.  I had planned a standard solid itinerary but in quickly became apparent that […]
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